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  #11  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:18 PM
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garnold garnold is offline
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
You could also use what is called "haircell ABS".
It is usually black and has a sandpaperery like textured surface.
Commonly used for boat dashboards.
Hole saw the hole for the lights and drill holes for countersunk flathead SS machine screws.

I happen to have some haircell ABS that is 1/4" thick if your interested.
I think I could use one of those large hole cutting tools for my drill press with that stuff? This one might be a little to big but I have others so I can make a nice clean hole. Might take you up on that board.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
This is what I'm talking about on mounting them.
That came out nice. These ideas are great!
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:22 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Good luck holding on to anything while you drill with that. Good way to break stuff. Hole saws that big are MEAN. And unless you can slow your drill press way down.... well, lets just say BTDT. Not good. Better off leaving the panel on the machine and using a hand held.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:24 PM
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garnold garnold is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Good luck holding on to anything while you drill with that. Good way to break stuff. Hole saws that big are MEAN. And unless you can slow your drill press way down.... well, lets just say BTDT. Not good. Better off leaving the panel on the machine and using a hand held.
How tough is that plastic board? I can slow my drill press down by changing the belts. Really think it will bust?
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:43 PM
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With a drill press I prefer this type of hole cutter for both plastic and metal.
The bit is the same as what you find on a metal lathe. About $20
"General No. 6"
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2013, 01:01 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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How tough is that plastic board? I can slow my drill press down by changing the belts. Really think it will bust?
Unless you can slow it down to 100 RPM or less, then no.

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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
With a drill press I prefer this type of hole cutter for both plastic and metal.
The bit is the same as what you find on a metal lathe. About $20
"General No. 6"
This is a way better option.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2013, 02:07 PM
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garnold garnold is offline
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Unless you can slow it down to 100 RPM or less, then no.



This is a way better option.
OK so I'll pick one of these up

So are we thinking about using normal tractor headlight bulbs and just use the brackets to sandwich them to this ABS board? That might be a very inexpensive way to put together some nice headlights. I can get whatever bulbs I want and any after market brackets from a tractor around so it can be easy to find and cheap.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2013, 09:04 PM
turbo460 turbo460 is offline
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You can use that type of hole saw just use your head. C clamp a piece of angle on to the table of your drill press and place the material you are wanting to drill the hole in up against the angle iron and that will keep it from spinning.. I have literally drilled hundreds of holes like this from 1" to 5" never any issues.. Although the hole cutter double07 speaks of would make it easier...
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2013, 11:49 PM
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I used two headlights from a john Deere b with the cast iron mounting part from the B, I mounted them on my john deere stx 38.
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by garnold View Post
I've seen some very creative things on this site. Can you folks post some of your headlight ideas here please. Any model Cub would do so we can share. I'm looking to add some headlights to my cubs and stock is not required. I'd much rather get something using more current technology since they would be brighter. Sure I could just go snag some fog lamps from the auto store and bolt them on but I'm sure we have some folks around here that have put together some pretty snazzy ideas that others would be interested in seeing. Thanks in advance!!!
Halogens, got them at Pep Boys, about $35 I think. They have a nice lip in the front, measured the diameter behind the lip and cut holes in the panel with metal cutting blade in saber saw. The lights have studs at 3 & 9 o'clock to mount to mounting brackets that come with lights, Modified the brackets to hold lights in from rear of panel.
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