Iso mounts???? - Page 2

cubfan · #11 01-01-2014, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bsmith

What you have are not cub cadet iso mounts.

They are an automotive sway bar bushing that can be used as an alternative.

They are much cheaper cost wise than the cub mounts. I am currently trialing some of this type in my 1000. I have had them in for one season of mowing and have not had any issues.

The cub mounts are expensive and will be accompanied with the following instruction sheet.

Ok I got the new ISO mounts in and have looked at the installation instructions but there is something that I either don't understand or I'm not getting the concept.The two ISO/MOUNT WASHERS fit perfectly up inside of the upper ISO MOUNT. Are they supposed to be up in the recessed part of the mount?I just don't understand the reasoning behind having two seperate washers that go up inside the mount.Maybe someone can enlighten me on this.Here is a couple of pics to somewhat illustrate how Im understanding this or how Im NOT understanding it.

bkw3614 · #12 01-01-2014, 07:46 PM

What you have there is what appears to me to be the correct Cub Cadet ISO Mount part kit for your tractor. It also looks as if you have assembled the kit correctly. with the washers in the upper mount and the sleeves in both the lower and the upper mount.

The washers retain the strength of the upper mount by keeping it from collapsing onto the lower mount, resulting in a loose bolt. The lower mount fits into the engine cradle hole. The bolt goes through the hole in the frame, into the sleeve inside the lower mount, then into sleeve of the upper mount, then the large washer is put on top. and the bolt is secured with the locking nut.

In your last picture, you have the correctly assembled ISO mount in your hand. Now, you need the modified engine cradle. Set the cradle inside the frame of the tractor. Secure it with the new ISO mounts, as you have them assembled, and according to the assembly instruction. Use a new locking nut. and tighten to no more than two threads showing. Replace the engine in the tractor, and bolt it to the engine cradle. BE SURE to use lock washers! (I used a drop of blue Locktite on the engine mount bolts after they came loose once!)

Put the rest of the tractor together and run it. Take it for a cruise. It probably will bounce and vibrate. You then must begin the tightening process to find the best spot for your mounts and your engine. Mine settled in with three to six threads showing, depending on the mount. That is not to say that yours will be the same.

Two things to consider: First, it has been said that new ISO mounts tend to 'wear in' a little bit. This may be a long process to get them adjusted. Don't give up. Second, check your mounting bolts regularly. Be sure the engine bolts are tight, so that no vibration comes from loose bolts at the oil pan; and be sure that the ISO bolts are tight. Too tight is better than too loose. Two threads showing may be to loose to start. If you can turn the ISO Mount bolts with your fingers, they are too loose.

Good luck with your project and please let us know how it progresses.

Brian Wittman

cubfan · #13 01-01-2014, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkw3614

What you have there is what appears to me to be the correct Cub Cadet ISO Mount part kit for your tractor. It also looks as if you have assembled the kit correctly. with the washers in the upper mount and the sleeves in both the lower and the upper mount.

The washers retain the strength of the upper mount by keeping it from collapsing onto the lower mount, resulting in a loose bolt. The lower mount fits into the engine cradle hole. The bolt goes through the hole in the frame, into the sleeve inside the lower mount, then into sleeve of the upper mount, then the large washer is put on top. and the bolt is secured with the locking nut.

In your last picture, you have the correctly assembled ISO mount in your hand. Now, you need the modified engine cradle. Set the cradle inside the frame of the tractor. Secure it with the new ISO mounts, as you have them assembled, and according to the assembly instruction. Use a new locking nut. and tighten to no more than two threads showing. Replace the engine in the tractor, and bolt it to the engine cradle. BE SURE to use lock washers! (I used a drop of blue Locktite on the engine mount bolts after they came loose once!)

Put the rest of the tractor together and run it. Take it for a cruise. It probably will bounce and vibrate. You then must begin the tightening process to find the best spot for your mounts and your engine. Mine settled in with three to six threads showing, depending on the mount. That is not to say that yours will be the same.

Two things to consider: First, it has been said that new ISO mounts tend to 'wear in' a little bit. This may be a long process to get them adjusted. Don't give up. Second, check your mounting bolts regularly. Be sure the engine bolts are tight, so that no vibration comes from loose bolts at the oil pan; and be sure that the ISO bolts are tight. Too tight is better than too loose. Two threads showing may be to loose to start. If you can turn the ISO Mount bolts with your fingers, they are too loose.

Good luck with your project and please let us know how it progresses.

Brian Wittman

Thank you so very much.For the life of me I just couldn't grasp the purpose for putting two seperate washers inside of the upper mount.The best I could figure was to allow the upper mount to have movement independent of the lower mount.I also got the snubbers for it and welded the rails.Still have some work to do before putting the engine back in,Im having to wait on more parts and am only home on the weekends but like they say good things come to those who wait.I'm doing some research on paint and paint techniques as this will be my first paint job not using rattle cans.Also have to either repair the current wire harness or get a new one again.When I removed it I found where one of the wires had chaffed and did quiet a bit of damage to it.Thanks again for your help.

Mortgaged · #14 01-03-2014, 04:55 PM

100 inch-lbs is a low overall torque and not the normal "ft-lbs" torque that you would expect to see. Did you torque to 100 ft-lbs by mistake?

To convert from inch-lbs to ft-lbs you just divide by 12 which would give you 8.3 ft-lbs torque on a standard wrench. My torque wrench only goes down to 10 ft-lbs so this is what I used.

bkw3614 · #15 01-04-2014, 08:21 AM

Quote:

100 inch-lbs is a low overall torque and not the normal "ft-lbs" torque that you would expect to see. Did you torque to 100 ft-lbs by mistake?

I will agree that 100 inch-pounds of torque isn't tight. However, when that pressure is applied to rubber, it collapses the rubber rather quickly. That is why starting with two threads showing at the tip of the locknut is a good start, and then beginning the adjustment process from there. Still, too tight is better than too loose when it comes to ISO mounts, but it still seems to me that beginning the adjustment process with 100 inch-pounds of torque at the bolts is awfully tight. My ISO mounts may have very well ended up at that setting. Maybe not. What I do know is that the system, and the adjustment process works.

Let's think about your statement. One Hundred foot-pounds is the torque setting on the wheel nuts for my Chevrolet. I don't know if a 3/8" bolt can take that. I have an inch-pound torque wrench, and because it was used in this process, it is rather difficult to get 100 foot-pounds out of it. For small equipment like our Cub Cadets, a high-quality inch-pound torque wrench is a good investment. I wouldn't trust a mathmatic conversion and a guess.