Think I just bought me an 1811

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

That has nothing to do with governor position. Probably should pull the carb and clean it/ tune the motor up.

Governor sensitivity example:
1.) You are blowing snow. You plow into a pile, the motor pulls down, but doesn't try to pick back up. Pulls down more, then starts trying to pick back up. Or, same scenario only it pulls down immediately and too far, then tries to come back. The governor isn't set to be sensitive enough.

2.) You are using your tractor out in the yard. Half throttle pulling a trailer. Every time you move the hydro handle the engine jumps up in RPM and really comes to life, then immediately calms back down after the initial movement of the tractor. Governor is set too sensitive.

Good example of how to tell if the governor is set too sensitive or not sensitive enough! So, in the future if I'm driving and hit the hydro lever to increase speed and it seems to delay a bit before the engine recovers, it needs to be more sensitive? So that would mean move the spring out one hole on either end? And vice versa, if I move the lever and it surges too quickly, I'd need to decrease sensitivity by moving it back inward one hole? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

And on the carb, I planned on pulling it and giving it a good cleaning but it just confused me why it'd studder when I increase RPM slowly but snap to when I "give it the beans". Didn't know if there was anything else I could check for that, thanks!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by jimbob200521

So, in the future if I'm driving and hit the hydro lever to increase speed and it seems to delay a bit before the engine recovers, it needs to be more sensitive? So that would mean move the spring out one hole on either end? And vice versa, if I move the lever and it surges too quickly, I'd need to decrease sensitivity by moving it back inward one hole? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

No, you have it backwards. In to make it more sensitive, out to decrease it. Only move it at the governor shaft. Here........ Kohler M18 Service Manual.
It explains it on page 6A.14

[jimbob200521]

Well, good news and bad news; good news is, I got the carb cleaned and reinstalled Friday night and gave her a good workout Saturday for about five hours plowing lots and lots of snow. She ran like a champ and impressed me very much but I think I have the carb running a bit rich because shell puff some black smoke when I rev from idle. The bad news: I checked the oil this morning and there was nothing on the dipstick I don't see any oil below her but I'm going to run to the auto parts store and fill her back up then run it for a bit and park it to see if I can find where its coming from. This is really a heartbreaker as I hope(d) to use it the rest of the winter. When I started yesterday, she was a smidge above full on the dipstick and now to be empty, really a surprise for me. The guy I got it from said he replaced the front crank seal but didn't take the motor out so maybe that's where the leak is from? I'm crossing my fingers that whatever it is, it isn't too bad. Anywhere on this M18 that's a common leak place I can look?

[red56turbo]

Ryan,
There's no way that thing could burn that much oil in 5 hours of use unless it was smokin' like a freight train. Gotta be leaking somewhere. Can you look under the hood and see oil anywhere or look underneath? Sometimes the breather can build up pressure if it's not working and blow out the seals. It's also a good idea to use sealer when the seals are replaced or some guys stake the seals since they sometimes spin in the bore on the crankcase. The rear seal (front, pto side in a cub) can be replaced while in the tractor. The front seal (rear, driveshaft in a cub) warrants yanking the engine. Check the oil filter remote lines and the oil filter. The oil sender unit is another spot to check. Good luck and keep us posted on what u find.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by red56turbo

Ryan,
There's no way that thing could burn that much oil in 5 hours of use unless it was smokin' like a freight train. Gotta be leaking somewhere. Can you look under the hood and see oil anywhere or look underneath? Sometimes the breather can build up pressure if it's not working and blow out the seals. It's also a good idea to use sealer when the seals are replaced or some guys stake the seals since they sometimes spin in the bore on the crankcase. The rear seal (front, pto side in a cub) can be replaced while in the tractor. The front seal (rear, driveshaft in a cub) warrants yanking the engine. Check the oil filter remote lines and the oil filter. The oil sender unit is another spot to check. Good luck and keep us posted on what u find.

I agree with everything said.
Just a technicality though..... The "rear" of a motor is always the flywheel end. So, the front is the PTO end, and the rear is the flywheel end, just as it is in the machine. The only ones that are different are the Kubota's. They are in backwards. Flywheel on them is the PTO end.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by red56turbo

Ryan,
There's no way that thing could burn that much oil in 5 hours of use unless it was smokin' like a freight train. Gotta be leaking somewhere. Can you look under the hood and see oil anywhere or look underneath? Sometimes the breather can build up pressure if it's not working and blow out the seals. It's also a good idea to use sealer when the seals are replaced or some guys stake the seals since they sometimes spin in the bore on the crankcase. The rear seal (front, pto side in a cub) can be replaced while in the tractor. The front seal (rear, driveshaft in a cub) warrants yanking the engine. Check the oil filter remote lines and the oil filter. The oil sender unit is another spot to check. Good luck and keep us posted on what u find.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I agree with everything said.
Just a technicality though..... The "rear" of a motor is always the flywheel end. So, the front is the PTO end, and the rear is the flywheel end, just as it is in the machine. The only ones that are different are the Kubota's. They are in backwards. Flywheel on them is the PTO end.

Good things to check guys, thanks! After I ran her for about half an hour (after topping off with oil, of course) I pulled back into the garage and started looking around. I looked through the front grill with the tractor still running and saw oil "bubbling" out of the driverside left head I turned it off and pulled the shrouds off the engine and found what's in the pics below. Just out of curiosity, I put a wrench to the bolt covered in oil and it was loose. Ugh! So I got my torque wrench out and put 20lbs (per Kohler service manual) on the bolt and checked the others. 2 others were "loose", though not AS loose. I put the covers back on and started it up again. I watched the head again for a couple minutes and I didn't see anything oozing out. So, for now, I hope to be alright. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this and as soon as winter is over, I'm going to do the right thing and pull the head and replace the gasket, probably on both sides; since I'm doing one, might as well do both but right now, I can't afford to have this down. I'll keep a close eye this thing and keep you guys posted. Any thoughts, guys?

[J-Mech]

Don't let it go. Fix it now. Why take a chance? Not worth ruining the motor over a few hours work and a $15 head gasket.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Don't let it go. Fix it now. Why take a chance? Not worth ruining the motor over a few hours work and a $15 head gasket.

Where's a good place to get a head gasket? I checked the Cub Parts site and under 1811, it doesn't list the motor parts breakdown anymore.

[J-Mech]

O'Reilly's
Part number: 7-02449 you'll need to tell them that is a Prime Line part number. My store tells me it's $10. Get 2, do them both.

I didn't have any trouble on cub parts site. It's under cylinder head. Part # KH-52-041-18, $22.12.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

O'Reilly's
Part number: 7-02449 you'll need to tell them that is a Prime Line part number. My store tells me it's $10. Get 2, do them both.

I didn't have any trouble on cub parts site. It's under cylinder head. Part # KH-52-041-18, $22.12.

Just ordered 2 Best to get some new head bolts, as well? 2" Grade 5, iirc. I want to be prepared, this will be my first venture "inside" of an engine so any pointers y'all have would be appreciated!