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  #21  
Old 02-12-2014, 10:15 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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I don't know about WD-40, but if it is anything like PB Blaster, then I wouldn't use it!!! I made the mistake once of using PB Blaster for that purpose and my carb caught fire and it continued to burn even after the cub was shut off. In fact, it was literally dripping the fire out of the carb and down on the ground!! The carb and choke spray evaporates quickly, so this problem does not occur--although, too much can shoot a flame out the carb (that is why I always replace the air cleaner cover).

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  #22  
Old 02-12-2014, 10:24 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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PB blaster isn't flammable. Believe me..... I shoot it on red hot steel when I heat it up. Then put the torch back to it. I use it because it won't flash. WD-40 does. If PB in the carb did anything, it made it backfire and caught the gas in the carb on fire.

NOTE: anytime you have a carb fire, crank the motor. It sucks the fire inside and it usually goes out. (Pretty safe place for fire...... INSIDE the motor.)
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  #23  
Old 02-12-2014, 10:39 PM
dgrapes59 dgrapes59 is offline
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FYI, there is an article in the current issue of Red Power magazine by Todd Markle on starting fluid (and using carb cleaner), discouraging use of most for various reasons including washing the oil off the cylinder walls. He did recommend Seafoam Deep Creep & Seafoam Spray Cleaner and Lube; light spray to help determine the cause of a no-start condition.

Good luck,
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  #24  
Old 02-13-2014, 05:11 PM
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Well just a quick update, not that anything has really changed yet. We had some significantly warmer weather today, in the mid 30's in fact. It felt like a heatwave compared to the weather we'd been having. Anywho, just for my own sake, I gave the tractor a try starting. Now one thing I'll note is that last night, I put the trickle charger on it and it had been being kept on until this point (before I used my truck or another tractor to try and start/jump it). Anyway, a couple cranks later and it fired right up, no carb, brake, or starter fluid needed. I may still drain the gas and get a new spark plug since that can only help but as of right now, it's starting again. Now to get the "new" gearbox on the thrower and give that a shot!
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Just tore down a K301 motor today with the same problem. Intake valve not seating in it. Exhaust was burnt too. Don't think that had anything to do with it being a slow cranker. But it was why it was puffing back through the carb. It too ran fine, but wouldn't start.
Well I got a chance to give her the beans today making room for more snow and while she performed very good, she didn't do great. When I'd load that thrower up, she'd almost sputter. I took just the bowl off the carb today before I ran it and there was some gunk in the bottom, I'm guessing that from using brake/carb cleaner, it cleaned gunk off and ran down into the bowl Anyway, I cleaned it out, put new fuel line on it, and fresh fuel. Could the intake valve not seating only cause a sputter a full throttle leaning hard on the governor? And just out of curiosity, more to confirm, the spark plug gap for this motor is .35, correct?

Edit: Now that I know how easy it is, I'm debating removing and cleaning the head up on the 14hp in the 129 and if the valve is suspect to not be seating right, figured I could clean it up while I'm in there.
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2014, 06:04 PM
MikeC MikeC is offline
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Glad you got it started. I was getting worried when the posts turned to using WD-40. If that didn't work you know what would have been next.
I, along with many others, are firm believers that everything can be fixed with WD-40 or duct tape, and truthfully, I haven't the faintest idea where you would put the tape.
Maybe using it as insulation by wrapping the battery.
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2014, 07:21 PM
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The gap is suppose to be .025.It is on my 125.
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2014, 07:52 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
The gap is suppose to be .025.It is on my 125.
Kohler book says .035" ?? But my owners manual on the 1X6/7 tractors says .025" ???

Is there a disconnect somewhere? Did cub suggest a different gap than Kohler?
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2014, 08:30 PM
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Not sure but the engine tag on the 125 says .025 on it.So does my 128.
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  #30  
Old 02-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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I gap all my Kohler plugs at .035 I prefer running a Autolite 216 as well. They are a bit hotter than what is recommend and seem to smooth things out.
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