Haban H42 on 782

[cnysabo]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Seeing as how the skematic images I posted, are supposed to be for the H42 and the H48, I would think you should have the 3/16 key at the spocket end also? Funny thing, mine has a 3/8-16 set screw drilled and tapped, right above the key on the sprocket end of the driveshaft. (It is not shown in the skematic?)I guess maybe it's some a previous owner added, but why is the jam nut on that backing off also?

The tapped hole for the set screw is on mine to. Opposite the grease fitting nut on the universal joint at the gear box end. I don't remember there being a set screw in there when I got it, it could be a part that fit some other models and it was just easier for production to make it truly a universal part. But as of right now, I don't have the parallel key in it either. I just plan to use that part of the system as the shear point.

That being said, I did decide to put a new grade 2 bolt in the shear pin hole today and to my absolute amazement it worked perfectly the whole 1hr+ I used it. What I did differently was tighten it down like I had read elsewhere should be done. I guess it held the extra movement at bay long enough that it didn't hammer the bolt in two.
Also, just for the record, I used a 1/4" grade 2 bolt that was 2 1/2 inches long with a regular washer on the bolt end and a nylon lock nut on the either side. I ran out of the 2" ones, but maybe that is why it held together better. With the 2 1/2" long bolt 2/3rds of the shank is unthreaded. All that is threaded sticks out the other side. Could that little bit of extra metal give it some added strength? In effect, the actually part of the bolt being stressed then resembles your legitimate shear pins above. I'm going to have to go and dig through the broken bolts to see where they break off. Anyway, at this point I'm up and running and interestingly enough, by the end of the day the belt was what was slipping in the heavy stuff.
Hope the battle is improving on your end.

[MWShaw]

Yes, both of my yokes were tapped above the key. Odd thing was the sprocket end was drilled and tapped 3/8"-16. The on at the gearbox was 1/4"-20?

I no longer have any shear pins, that are holding torque. I keyed both end, gearbox and sprocket. Lots of red Loctite.

It's snowing here now, I'll put it to the test tomorrow.

[cnysabo]

Well, maybe your onto a better design which would be great! There doesn't seem like there is anything that you've done that you can't undo if it doesn't work as well as imagined. I would just probably back off on the belt tension a little at first and increase it accordingly. Only because I once blew the oil seal out from behind the pto on my 1641 when I was mowing the garden down... I guess the corn stalks and broccoli stalks were a little hard on it. It seemed like a good idea at the time, in fact it still seems like a good idea because I still tend to do it with a slight apprehension each fall. Anyway, the seal was easy enough to replace.

One other thing that I just realized, and maybe it's already been discussed... but in the parts diagram, the 3/16" parallel key (part #35) is only shown on the sprocket end of the shaft, but not on the gear box end even though the groove is cut in the shaft for it. Also the shear pin is shown on the gear box end. So this leads me to believe that is the place Haban intended to shear. Which is the easier access of the two and it is the way my H48 came.

[MWShaw]

Originally Posted by Redblower

When I got it there was a "C" clip on the end, a key and 3/8-16 set screw, the key way on the pulley is "worn out" so the key rolls over even though the set screw is tight with red loctite.
After I drilled the other hole out, 90 degrees from the key way, the first 1/4-20 bolts I put in were just long enough, i.e. threads in the contact area. After 2 of those broke I put in a grade 8 that is long enough, 2 1/2" if I remember right, that is is almost all "shank" in the contact area. I like the idea of getting even a little longer and using washers.
I think my big problem now is that the pulley is so worn that it is wobbling on the shaft, as mentioned earlier, I hope it's the pulley and not the shaft.
Vic

I'm sorry, I missed that yours was a problem with the pulley. My pulley had a square head bolt holding it on.

Originally Posted by cnysabo

Well, maybe your onto a better design which would be great! There doesn't seem like there is anything that you've done that you can't undo if it doesn't work as well as imagined. I would just probably back off on the belt tension a little at first and increase it accordingly. Only because I once blew the oil seal out from behind the pto on my 1641 when I was mowing the garden down... I guess the corn stalks and broccoli stalks were a little hard on it. It seemed like a good idea at the time, in fact it still seems like a good idea because I still tend to do it with a slight apprehension each fall. Anyway, the seal was easy enough to replace.

One other thing that I just realized, and maybe it's already been discussed... but in the parts diagram, the 3/16" parallel key (part #35) is only shown on the sprocket end of the shaft, but not on the gear box end even though the groove is cut in the shaft for it. Also the shear pin is shown on the gear box end. So this leads me to believe that is the place Haban intended to shear. Which is the easier access of the two and it is the way my H48 came.

You are correct, it does appear that Haban wanted the "sacrificial" part (shear pin) to be at the gearbox, the sprocket end was not intended to shear. One of the previous owners of mine, must have lost the key at the sprocket end, and never replaced it.

[MWShaw]

2.5 hours tonight, happy so far. Here's a short video of the Haban. Sorry it so shaky, tire chains on concrete!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7zUO...=share&index=1

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

2.5 hours tonight, happy so far. Here's a short video of the Haban. Sorry it so shaky, tire chains on concrete!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7zUO...=share&index=1

Glad it's working for you! Thanks for the vid!

[cnysabo]

I'm glad to see the thrower is working so well!
While I had a banner day on Monday clearing the driveway and walk and even made a path for the fuel oil guy around to the other side of the house, on Tuesday I woke up to all the snow back in the driveway due to high winds. Anyway, that day went about as poorly as could be expected. The snow was heavier, and though I was basically crawling with the tractor it still burned out the belt (though the 2 1/2" grade 2 bolt has yet to brake!) Then after getting a new belt on it, the entire driveshaft with the u-joints on each end broke off. Now to be fair to the machine, I had broken the u-joint on the male end earlier in the year. And in my ignorance I just put a grade 8 bolt through it to re-attach it. Then I broke the one on the female end last week and put another grade 8 through that. Never realizing I was cutting down on the rotation axis angles needed and introducing a lot of play. So Yesterday, after the tractor spit the arm once again, I now have almost all the cups on the u-joints busted out. And the square block in the center of the u-joints has gotten pretty mangled over time. I mention all this for two reasons:
1. To catalogue my mistakes in case anyone else finds themselves in my shoes and is also lacking the proper know-how like me.
2. To ask if anyone knows where I can find one of these drive shafts? I need both the male and female ends and I think the total length when fitted together is about 15" with about a 7/8" hole on the one end and a 3/4" hole on the other.
Thanks.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by cnysabo

..........................
Also, just for the record, I used a 1/4" grade 2 bolt that was 2 1/2 inches long with a regular washer on the bolt end and a nylon lock nut on the either side. I ran out of the 2" ones, but maybe that is why it held together better. With the 2 1/2" long bolt 2/3rds of the shank is unthreaded. All that is threaded sticks out the other side. Could that little bit of extra metal give it some added strength? In effect, the actually part of the bolt being stressed then resembles your legitimate shear pins above. I'm going to have to go and dig through the broken bolts to see where they break off. Anyway, at this point I'm up and running and interestingly enough, by the end of the day the belt was what was slipping in the heavy stuff.
Hope the battle is improving on your end.

I was reading about driveshaft couplers and the person highly suggested getting bolts long enough that the full body was thru the coupler and to use washers to make it tight. This particular set up used two bolts so one was inserted from one side and the other bolt from the otherside so the extra length didn't offset the balance. ( a drive shaft spins at up to 3600 rpm )