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#63
03-09-2014, 09:06 AM
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Very nice work SDD. Thanks for the parts list, ver helpful. Most people that don't know about doing this have no idea how much labor and parts go into doing one especially at your level. Heck I didn't even know it would add up to that much. Question. What was wrong with your rims that you had to get new ones? Also, is the yellow your using matching up with the S/W yellow that you talked about? I know they say they all should match but just curious how you see it matching.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub 
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#64
03-09-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
As for the paints matching the S/W colors, it's a bit of a gamble. I'm using IH rattle cans for these parts, same color used to match the paint. Since this is not a "show" tractor, I'm not overly concerned with exact match, as long as it's close. If I discover there is an obvious mismatch, I'll have to decide if it's bad enough to repaint. At least the steering gear is hidden, so it won't be too obvious. The only white parts the sandblaster is painting is the tunnel cover and dash tower. (plus two snow blades I gave him) I'm painting the side covers, front grill, grill nose and hood. . The frame, fenders, everything else will be painted with the S/W yellow.
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#66
03-10-2014, 10:08 AM
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Had a busy weekend doing mostly other stuff, but thought I'd post these pics of the worn steering gear. The follower stud is badly worn. When worn this badly I don't try to re-grind it, though I suppose it's possible. You can see some chipping along the upper edges of the helix gear channels, probably due to the stud not fully engaged in the channel. I've never seen this much damage to the helix in any of the other tractors I've worked on. If the new stud is seated fully into the channel, this damage should not be an issue, but I'd be open to comments from others more experienced. Would you replace this shaft with the damage? Or just smooth out the jagged edges and put it back? I'll use a new follower stud, regardless.
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#67
03-10-2014, 10:23 AM
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I'd find a suitable replacement. Even if you clean it up nice and smooth, it will be loose in some spots and tight in others. I suppose you could repair it to be uniform the length of the travel but a good used one would be a lot quicker.
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Philip 1450, 1015, and a pile of parts.
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#68
03-11-2014, 09:40 AM
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Set the steering gear aside and started working on the clutch. Decided the drive shaft was worn enough to replace. Marked, center punched and drilled new holes, assembled the shaft with new parts. I'm installing a creeper gear, so I will measure and cut the shaft to length once I get the tractor assembled. Pics: worn shaft, new components including re-faced pressure plates, the proper spirol pin punch, marking, center punching and drilling the shaft, and assembly results. Will need to put the clutch actuator arm on before installing the final pin in the last pressure plate.
One question: Is my left leg going to regret using this 800lb spring from MSC? I noticed it was quite a bit more difficult to compress in the vise to install the roll pins.
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#70
03-11-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-43...+pin+punch+set
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