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  #11  
Old 04-27-2014, 05:35 PM
habitat0789 habitat0789 is offline
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Location: Virginia
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ok so im going to buy a new fuel pump. and a carb rebuild kit.

Found the fuel pump on parts tree but not sure if that's the best place to get the rebuild kit.

when pull that stuff to rebuild the carb i will plan to drain the crank case of gas/oil as well. is there anything else i should do while i am in there? should i pull off the head and clean that out too? head gasket? I am all for job economy

thanks for the insite guys. I will not give up on the cub!
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:30 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Location: Oblong, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
ok so im going to buy a new fuel pump. and a carb rebuild kit.

Found the fuel pump on parts tree but not sure if that's the best place to get the rebuild kit.

when pull that stuff to rebuild the carb i will plan to drain the crank case of gas/oil as well. is there anything else i should do while i am in there? should i pull off the head and clean that out too? head gasket? I am all for job economy

thanks for the insite guys. I will not give up on the cub!

You can get a fuel pump and carb kit from O'Reilly's. Cheaper than partstree and no shipping. Won't be genuine Kohler if that's a concern to you, but I use their stuff (Primeline) all the time. You can pull the heads if you want to, but I would wait till you hear it run. That way you know if there are other problems that may need addressed. I'd do as Roland suggested and do a quick compression check and see what kind of shape the motor is in. I also would suggest pulling it, taking off the tins, power washing it off. Carb and fuel pump will be easy to get to while tins are off and it's out. You can start the Mag on the floor not in a tractor if you want, that way you don't reinstall and find that it still has trouble.
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2014, 04:07 PM
habitat0789 habitat0789 is offline
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so i ordered a carb kit,or what i thought would be a carb kit and a float kit, or what i thought would be a float kit.

I use part numbers from the service manual into amazon and ordered the matching items... theparts i recieved turned out to be relativly incompatible and insufficient.

I was able to replace the old plastic float with a new metal one, i used the old needle. put a float baffle in which was absent from the carb when i took it apart. new fuel bowl gasket and washer on the bottom screw. replaced fuel pump and all the fuel lines from filter to carb, also new fuel filter. changed engine oil and filter.

so, it was a pretty half a*&ed rebuild but i decided to give it a shot. so i put everything back together and cranked it over and it began to show signs of life.

it would fire once or twice wile i cranked then the starter would clutch out or something an make that "errrrr!" noise.

eventually i got it running and ran it for about an hour, and poured a some seafoam into the gas.

now it will start but seems to require a fair amount of cranking before it starts kicking, but once its running it seems to run alright. if i bring the throttle down to 15% the engine stalls out.

also in addition to the trans fluid that is already leaking, i noticed engine oil is leaking as well.

i need to grease all the grease points and get some mounting hardware to get the mower deck on it so until then its still being tinkered with.

My questions.

To diagnose the oil leak, its probably best to pull the engine off right?

should i go back and rebuild the carb properly?

to fix the trans leak i think i will have to drop the trans?

do i need any special tools(lifts or jacks) to pull the engine/trans?

thanks guys!
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2014, 11:18 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
I was able to replace the old plastic float with a new metal one, i used the old needle. put a float baffle in which was absent from the carb when i took it apart. new fuel bowl gasket and washer on the bottom screw. replaced fuel pump and all the fuel lines from filter to carb, also new fuel filter. changed engine oil and filter.

so, it was a pretty half a*&ed rebuild but i decided to give it a shot. so i put everything back together and cranked it over and it began to show signs of life.

it would fire once or twice wile i cranked then the starter would clutch out or something an make that "errrrr!" noise.

eventually i got it running and ran it for about an hour, and poured a some seafoam into the gas.

now it will start but seems to require a fair amount of cranking before it starts kicking, but once its running it seems to run alright. if i bring the throttle down to 15% the engine stalls out.

also in addition to the trans fluid that is already leaking, i noticed engine oil is leaking as well.

Why did you replace the float?
What "float baffle"? The gasket? Is that the baffle you are talking about?
Sounds like the bendix on the starter needs some oil.
Did you tune the carb? Adjust the float? Or just set it like the book says? Sounds like the carb is out of adjustment.




My questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
To diagnose the oil leak, its probably best to pull the engine off right?
Depends.... Where is the oil leak? Just all over? Or at the front? Back? Under? On top??????? We can't see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
should i go back and rebuild the carb properly?
YES!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
to fix the trans leak i think i will have to drop the trans?
Maybe ...... Where is it leaking??? We can't see this leak either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by habitat0789 View Post
do i need any special tools(lifts or jacks) to pull the engine/trans?
Depends. Can you pick up a Mag 18? I can't. You will at least need a jack, blocks of wood, jack stands.... something. Unless your going to hang it from the rafters. The service manual tells you EXACTLY how to do this.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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