Hydro Drive Tips

[garnold]

So this 127 is my first walk in the park with a hydro. I've downloaded the service manual and have been checking it over. Still, I wanted to ask the forum if there are any really important things I need to do/maintain with this type of transmission? The direct drive's seem so simple and I'm still a little overwhelmed by this transmission. Also, there seems to be a linkage from the brake pedal that should put the tractor in N when pushed down? Is this correct? I ask because this is what the PO said and it is not connected to anything right now. I'm having a tough time finding out how this connects in the manuals so thought I would ask. Right now I have some PB Blast soaking on the foot rest bolts so I can remove the fender and check things out. The tractor needs some tuning and the manual shows that it is much easier to do all this with the fender off.

[Maxwelhse]

Yes, there should be a rod connected that returns the tranny to N when the brake is pressed.

IMO, the biggest thing about owning a hydro is keeping the fluid full and clean. Otherwise they pretty much last forever outside of rare circumstances.

[garnold]

Originally Posted by Maxwelhse

Yes, there should be a rod connected that returns the tranny to N when the brake is pressed.

IMO, the biggest thing about owning a hydro is keeping the fluid full and clean. Otherwise they pretty much last forever outside of rare circumstances.

From what I can see this might be a tall order but does anyone have a pic of how this rod connects or can point it out for me in the service guide?

Thanks for the info on maintenance. Nice to know these are very dependable. I'll read up on the proper filter and fluid to use. I'd like to do an oil change and anything else right away so I know for sure when it was last done :-)

[DoubleO7]

Hard to see but look at illustration 2-40 part (rod) #1
Which is #14 in illustration 2-40A with clevis #15 connected to brake pedal cross shaft.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x6-7%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Or #112 on what appears to be a patent drawing for IH on a CC but it does not mention either.
http://patentimages.storage.googleap...S3354981-3.png

[Jeff in Pa]

I prefer hydro drive to manual but they're all good.

One thing to know with a hydro drive regarding speed. It is NOT cruise control, it's just a simple hydraulic pump. When you go down hill, you'll need to pull the lever back to slow down. That also means when you go up hill, you'll push the lever forward to maintain speed.

[Sam Mac]

Hope these pics help explain how the linkage for the brake neutral rod attaches

[Steve149]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

Hard to see but look at illustration 2-40 part (rod) #1
Which is #14 in illustration 2-40A with clevis #15 connected to brake pedal cross shaft.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x6-7%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Or #112 on what appears to be a patent drawing for IH on a CC but it does not mention either.
http://patentimages.storage.googleap...S3354981-3.png

I had the same issue on my 149...thank god for the removable tunnel cover as when that came off the problem was evident. New pin and clip and back in business in short order.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

I prefer hydro drive to manual but they're all good.

One thing to know with a hydro drive regarding speed. It is NOT cruise control, it's just a simple hydraulic pump. When you go down hill, you'll need to pull the lever back to slow down. That also means when you go up hill, you'll push the lever forward to maintain speed.

A worn trunnion and weak trunnion springs exacerbates this speed control issue. I've found after repairing the trunnion and replacing springs, and adjusting things to take slop out of the controls, that the hydro comes pretty close to cruise control, except on the steepest hills. On flat ground or moderate inclines, they tend to maintain speed much better once this repair is done. To be honest, I prefer gear drives for mowing on hilly terrain. But the hydro sure is nice when you've got a lot of obstacles to mow around and you are always backing up.

[garnold]

Originally Posted by Steve149

I had the same issue on my 149...thank god for the removable tunnel cover as when that came off the problem was evident. New pin and clip and back in business in short order.

Oh snap I can remove that cover? Really? Dang I should have looked at this I just thought since it was a N/F there was no tunnel cover and I had to remove the fenders to see anything. I've had the dang screws on the foot rests soaking in PB Blaster for that last few days just so I could remove the fenders and fix this!!!!! Ugh!!! OK I'll look for this tunnel cover tonight and see if I can get this up and running. Can you recommend the pin that I need? I don't have one so maybe just a bolt and lock nut will be in order this time around

[garnold]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Hope these pics help explain how the linkage for the brake neutral rod attaches

Thank you! I was looking at this all last night and thought that this might be it but your help confirms it for me