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  #11  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:18 AM
Bob95065 Bob95065 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Felton, CA
Posts: 372
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I had to replace the disc and throwout bearing on my 1000 that I got back after 10 years. I had the engine out and this is how I compressed the spring:

I put the rear pin in the shaft and loaded the big spring, throwout bearing and lever on the shaft and installed it in the tractor. I connected the hinge pin at the top of the lever and put the rod and spring in the bottom. I only threaded the nut on the rod until the nut was fully engaged and the rod was flush with the nut and no more.

I used a wire zip tie to hold the pedal up. I pushed the lever back with my right hand and put the back end of the linkage rod in the lever on the clutch/brake with my left. It wasn't easy but I did it. Once I had the spring compressed I was able to install the front pin and the pressure plates and disc. I adjusted the clutch per the manual.

My clutch throwout lever was worn and I was trying to get away with reusing it. My plan didn't work. The second time I did this the engine was in the tractor. I removed the muffler, loosened the engine mounting bolts and slid it forward as far as I could. I did the same thing as what the engine was in the frame except with less room.

In hindsight I could have used a ratchet strap or another mechanical means to compress the spring but I knew I could do it with brute force. I hope the clutch won't need service for another 40 years and I won't have to do it again.

Bob
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2014, 11:02 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Location: Medora, IL
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I hate to throw a wrench into your works but these things were not mentioned in this thread and they have been bugging me.

I hope that you have had the pressure plates turned.

Please use a new bushing in your 3 pin driver.

Put a little grease on the end of the shaft where it goes into the 3 pin driver (even if the bushing is oil impregnated).
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2014, 11:09 AM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Campbellsport Wisconsin
Posts: 1,585
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the saying goes "when in doubt throw it out" same goes for installing ball bearings. "when in doubt numbers out" I don't know how long those sayings were around . old guys were telling me that in the 70's . apparently they date farther back than that.

if its worn now. how much am I going to use it? do I want to do this again in a year or 2 ? and How much more will it wear and damage some of my new parts that I just put in? are the questions you can ask yourself. if you can answer those then you know what to do.
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2014, 01:33 PM
Dave_With_Cub108 Dave_With_Cub108 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ohio
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Default Cub 108 clutch drive shaft

Yes, spending $30 for a new clutch drive shaft is the best choice so that all the other clutch parts aren't degraded from an out-of-round shaft.

I purchased the clutch drive shaft from Yosemite Sam's web site which offered a much better price than what I was seeing on-line at other sites.

Thanks again for the advice,
Dave
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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