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  #1  
Old 05-11-2010, 08:54 AM
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thenrie thenrie is offline
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Default Steering box questions

I'm going through my 1650's steering box and have a parts question. I destroyed the adjustment plug trying to get it out, so I ordered a new plug, and two sets of bearings and cups. Once I received the parts, I noticed the new adjustment plug, which is machined from aluminum, has a bearing race machined into it for the lower bearing. So, although the parts diagram shows a bearing and bearing cup for both top and bottom for the steering gear, apparently with the new plug the bottom cup is not necessary. Correct?

Does anybody have any experience with the new adjustment plug? I'm skeptical that the aluminum bearing race is going to last long with steel ball bearings riding on it. I'm wondering whether I should take it to a machine shop and cut the plug to accept the steel bearing cup.

Second question: How do you get the old top bearing cup out of the steering box without destroying the box?

Last, a question regarding the "steering upgrade" for the cam follower. I can't seem to wrap my brain around how a roller bearing under the lock nut on the follower could improve steering. Doesn't the bearing in that position just act as a spacer? There should be no rotation of the follower once it is adjusted and the nut is tightened. What makes the bearing more functional in that position than a lock nut? Seems like a very expensive 1/4" thick washer to me. I must be missing something.
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2010, 10:03 AM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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I have no experience with the new plug, but I would say that having a bearing race in there would be a good idea.

I used a loooooong drift rod and carefully drove out the old upper race from the top through the tube part of the column. It's in there tight, but it will come out. Just be careful.

The bearing goes on the cam plate pivot bolt, not on the follower. You are correct, the follower doesn't spin. The bearing reduces the friction on the cam pivot plate bolt to make steering much easier. This trick really works. I did it to the 100 I refurbed last summer, and that tractor could be steered with 1 finger.
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:16 AM
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Amigatec Amigatec is offline
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My steering box was so bad I replaced it with one that has the 3 turn worm and all the upgrades in it. It's almost like power steering now.
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2010, 03:37 PM
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Rhoderman Rhoderman is offline
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I'm surprised that your new bottom plug doesn't readily accept the race. I made one steering box from two recently, and the new races I ordered didn't fit the bottom plug perfectly, but "close enough". You definitely want the balls to be running on the steel race, and not aluminum.

I went with the thrust bearing on the 5/8 shaft as well. Real nice. In fact, the bearing is made by "nice".

Also, spend the time to get your plate straight. I used small machinist's squares to check it, and drew it down in my big vise (not recommended, but I couldn't find anyone with a press). It was quite warped from the original factory weld causing the plate to 'tater chip.

Someone had said to adjust it on the bench for best results. I'll go one further and say to lightly lube it, assemble it, adjust it and mark it, take it apart and grease it well and put it back together. I didn't see any need to pump it full of grease until the next time I lube it in the chassis. Then, I'll be sure to lube it at several steering positions.

I wouldn't bother with the bearing at the top end. The one I got was sloppy in fit, and the bearing was stiff with heavy grease. I just couldn't figure out how that was going to help much. I re-used the plastic bushing, thinking it had lived 40 years with minimal wear, what's another 40?

Have fun with it! If the tube comes out, glue it back in with epoxy, but put the shaft in first so you can be sure it's aligned straight (...don't ask). If you want to remove the tube, don't even try, because it will be in there solid (again... don't ask). I was making one from two, so I got to experience both situations. The 122 and 126 steering assemblies are different overall lengths.
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2010, 03:46 AM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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Matt if you haven't noticed, the steering column comes with the tool to get the top race out. I just use the steering shaft. Works like a charm for me.

AJ
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  #6  
Old 05-12-2010, 08:47 AM
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I happened to have a very long steel rod. I had thought of that, but I didn't want to risk damaging the steering shaft by doing that.
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  #7  
Old 05-12-2010, 04:47 PM
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thenrie thenrie is offline
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Thanks, there Matt. I think I get the picture now on that thrust bearing. I wasn't looking closely enough at the pictures, I guess.

The new adjustment cap actually has a bearing race machined into it. That's why the steel bearing cap won't fit. No need for it. I was worried that the aluminum race wouldn't hold up well with the steel ball bearings, but I guess I'll give it a shot. I can always replace it again.
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  #8  
Old 05-13-2010, 07:21 AM
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thenrie thenrie is offline
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I used a drift on the inside rim of the upper bearing cup from the top (steering shaft end) of the box and it popped right out. No problem at all. I was afraid it was going to be a real problem.

Rhoderman, thanks for your input. The new bearing cup I got from CC Specialties doesn't look at all like the original one I got out of the top seat (the bottom was completely gone) and it fits loosely in the plug's seat. That's why I was questioning whether it was supposed to go there at all. Apparently the new bearing cups are different than the original ones. I guess that since it's not a high-speed application, it should be fine.

My top bearing is in decent shape as well, just the cup was worn out. So now I'm just waiting for more parts.
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2010, 03:01 PM
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Rhoderman Rhoderman is offline
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Tony,
My bottom outer race was destroyed, and the end plug was destroyed as well. That killed the housing, so I scrapped the one from the 122, except the longer tube which I was able to transfer to the 126 steering box with a bit of effort.
When you put it back together, put the balls & retainers and the races on the shaft and slide it in that way. Don't try to put the races and balls in the housing. The shaft on mine had a ridge that wouldn't allow it to go past the balls without disturbing them.
Like I said earlier, fit it up dry or lightly lubed, work out all the bugs, and then lube it good and put it back together.
Now that mine's together, it's like a whole new steering box. Well, I guess it really is...
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2010, 04:55 PM
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Guess I ought to take some pics. I keep forgetting. This could help someone else, I imagine.

Parts are on the way. I'll try to remember to take a couple pics while I'm putting things back together.
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