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  #1  
Old 10-17-2014, 01:03 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Default Rebuild tidbits and removing camshaft

I am rebuilding my K301 from my 1966 model 123 and I was SUPER excited to see how clean it was and the fact it is a standard untouched engine. Very minimal ridge and no scoring: Still has original standard piston. Cylinder bore and piston measurements are all bad by a little. However between ring wear and cylinder wear, ring gap was WAY off. Probably the reason for the blow-by and lack of power that caused me to rebuild.

Interestingly, everything else is fine. Crank pin measurement, wrist pin, etc.

However, I now need to tear down the governor and the camshaft so I can get the block cleaned and machined. Both of these looked like press-out jobs. However, my initial attempt created no movement and seemed to require more force than I felt comfortable applying. Neither the manual or my inspection indicated the presence of rings or clips that would prevent the press-out. The manual was pretty clear in which direction it should be pressed out, so I think I have that part right.

Am I going about this all wrong? Or am I just being to cautious and should go ahead and really lean into the press?


Also, any tips or tricks ?

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 10-17-2014, 01:14 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I've never had to press a cam pin out. Usually a hammer and a punch and a couple quick smacks and the cam pin comes out. You sure your doing it right? You took the rear bearing plate and the crank out already right?
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2014, 01:51 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I've never had to press a cam pin out. Usually a hammer and a punch and a couple quick smacks and the cam pin comes out. You sure your doing it right? You took the rear bearing plate and the crank out already right?
Thanks for the response. I have removed the crank and the bearing plate. I did try the hammer smack first and when that didn't work I went to the press. The cup plug at the end of the pin that must be driven out with the pin must be the culprit is all I can guess. It must be in there real good. I'll keep working it then. Sounds like I am on the right track.


Thanks again!
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2014, 02:04 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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What cup plug? There isn't a plug.... not supposed to be anyway.
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  #5  
Old 10-17-2014, 02:26 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
What cup plug? There isn't a plug.... not supposed to be anyway.
Hey,

I got that from the manual, but actually kind of noticed myself before that. The end of the camshaft pin on the bearing side was different than end of the pin on the PTO side. That difference I later surmised was that plug mentioned in the manual:

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Old 10-17-2014, 02:39 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Got me..... I agree that's what the book does say. I've not seen it. There is an updated cam pin. Maybe you have the old style? Parts book shows no plug. I hollered at dvogtvpe. Maybe he can shed some light.

Like I said, I always just drive it out.
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2014, 05:40 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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You are trying to drive it out from the pto side ( front of engine) aren't you? Just asking. My 79 1200 k301 had no plug or cup , just a pin.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #8  
Old 10-17-2014, 06:39 PM
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austin8214 austin8214 is offline
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I think they are calling the bearing plate the cap.
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:21 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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there is no cup plug there. like the others have mentioned a punch and a hammer it will come out.
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  #10  
Old 10-17-2014, 09:32 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Thanks for all the great replies. With the advice here, I had the nerve to really wail on it with brass drift and a 2 pound sledge. Once it moved it slid right out. But that first micrometer of movment was a bear.......


And yes - no cap. The difference in appearance is a shoulder the PTO side has to prevent the pin from sliding out the other way. The difference in diameter made me believe there was a cap as the manual indicated.

This brings me to the last two items to remove: The main bearing(PTO side ). Any suggestions for getting that out of a recessed hole without putting stress in the inner race? I doubt I'll reuse but these seem to be in excellent shape and I'd hate to ruin them. I do know enough to not put stress on the inner race...

Also - I disassembled the governor tonight too. Any reason to drive out the pin the governor gear rotates on? I don't see the need......

Thanks again so much - I really appreciate it!
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