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  #11  
Old 11-03-2014, 03:16 PM
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Group 44, clean the rear plate area real good, drain the oil and reuse it. When you pull the bolts for the brace clean the holes with brake cleaner and dab some Permatex #2 on the bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts and check them again after a little run time. Permatex #2 does harden so you can retorque it.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2014, 03:57 PM
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Get a clean 2 gal container, put it under the drain plug and drain the oil. Then when your done pour it back in. Also besides the permatex on the threads put some silicone under the heads of the bolts. They do go into oil in the case and I've a had a couple leak with only the permatex.
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2014, 10:53 AM
Frank1541 Frank1541 is offline
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What are the torque specs for the bolts. I looked in my Cub service manual and I could not find them.
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2014, 02:06 PM
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30 FT.LBS. per the service manual.
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2014, 05:09 PM
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Draining the oil isn't a problem, but pouring it back in is a pain. Any suggestions on an easier way to put it back in, it took forever to put the oil in when I did the fluid and filter service.
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Group_44 View Post
Draining the oil isn't a problem, but pouring it back in is a pain. Any suggestions on an easier way to put it back in, it took forever to put the oil in when I did the fluid and filter service.
I've heard that you can remove one of the check valves but I've never tried it. On the newer machines they have a vent at the top of the trans. What I do is to drill and tap the top of the case for a 1/8" pipe fitting then I put a barb adapter in it and a hose to a filter if the case doesn't have the vent. Only problem is you pretty much need to have the back cover off. This is an 1882 I did a couple years ago.
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2014, 10:26 PM
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When Eric and I filled our 2072 the first time I agree it is a sloppy burpy mess. We got the rear braces and had to do it all over again. This time we set up much the same as first with a small funnel. The difference was I had some oxygen breathing plastic hose. I took about an 18 inch piece and threaded it down through the funnel and this time got no burps. It seemed to go a bit faster too.
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2014, 10:29 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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I don't know if it's the right way, but I just remove the fill tube and use a long funnel works great and takes no time to fill.
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2014, 11:51 PM
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Pick yourself up an electric oil pump that are used for inboard marine engines for crankcase oil removal. I use mine for my Volvo SX drive, worked great for tranny on Cub too. No mess.
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  #20  
Old 11-07-2014, 11:34 AM
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Yes an oil pump would be the cats whiskers. Attempting to fill through the tube where the air also has to escape can be a burping mess. My addition of the plastic tube kept the burps away but was still slow.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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