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  #21  
Old 12-14-2014, 08:21 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCDiesel View Post
Started reassembly today, and ran across a couple of things I wanted to bounce off you folks. This is a K301(Serial C052589, SPEC 4759B) from a '67 model 123:

The cross shaft arm wiggles (see video). So I set the rivet tighter with a pin punch and that cured it. I assume this was a reasonable repair or is that rivet brittle and I might want to reconsider and replace it?

Cross shaft governor bushing nut does not have a washer - right? I don't recall one, don't see one in the diagrams but it doesn't "seem" right to shoulder right against the block.

Governor gear has a lot of back and forth on its pin. The stop pin does stop it, but seems excessive. I assume the direction of rotation of the camshaft gear keeps it up against the thrust washer and that outward travel I am seeing toward the cross shaft arm won't happen "in real life". Again, I don't recall removing anything that would help keep the governor gear from traveling along its shaft all the way out against the stop pin.

Turn your volume down before you click - I was listening to the radio (-:

http://www.atis.net/~yostsw/cross-shaft.MOV
I usually weld the governor shaft instead of using a punch.

I would replace the governor if it was my engine. You can see the point where governor wore on the governor shaft.
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  #22  
Old 12-15-2014, 09:37 AM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Default Hmmmmmm

Quick question on the cross-shaft: I went to order one and found all available cross-shafts are the newer style with the spacer. Mine is older with a cir-clip to hold it in place and no spacer. Are these interchangeable?

Thanks for the replies!
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2014, 10:27 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by NCDiesel View Post
Are these interchangeable?
Yep.
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2014, 07:59 PM
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gdheck gdheck is offline
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Guys,
I don't know if the cam of an M12 is different than a K301. I just disassembled the M12 for my 1211 and it did in fact have a cup plug in the end of the cam bore that had to be driven out with the pin. Maybe the older ones are different or it didn't get put back in at some point. Don't know.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2014, 09:02 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by gdheck View Post
Guys,
I don't know if the cam of an M12 is different than a K301. I just disassembled the M12 for my 1211 and it did in fact have a cup plug in the end of the cam bore that had to be driven out with the pin. Maybe the older ones are different or it didn't get put back in at some point. Don't know.
The M's and the K singles are basically the same. While the M's do show the plug in the parts book, and apparently are present, I see no need to put it back. Camshaft pin is the same, I don't see any use for it.
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  #26  
Old 01-23-2015, 09:31 PM
jcsmith jcsmith is offline
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Default cam pin

I just read recently the cam pin with the cup is 6 3/4 " ( new style ), while the old style pin was 7" long , thus the need for the cup when installed in a K engine . I presume the cup keeps the shorter pin from backing out. I read that at some point only the shorter pin was available. I think those are the correct pin length's. Anyone else know of this?


I must have missed post # 22.


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  #27  
Old 02-01-2015, 11:24 AM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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After a one month hiatus to attend to some mechanical issues on my wife's old Mercedes fintail, I am back on the K301. Things have been going swimmingly - I had purchased got a new governor crosshaft with a welded arm before I last stopped. I got that installed, the camshaft installed and the crankshaft timed and pressed into the bearing. I am about to put the crankshaft bearing plate on, and was wondering:

Should I use gasket dressing? I almost always use gasket dressing, but in this case it seems as if it will just affect crankshaft end play. Also, if I am wrong and need to add/delete a paper gasket to correct end play, I am sure that will be a mess to take it back apart to do that if I use dressing. Also - I assume it doesn't matter but I'll ask anyway: Does the paper shim go against the block or the bearing plate?

What does everyone else do?

While awaiting replies, I'm off to the shop to see if I can find a section of pipe to help me press the plate back on. I know there is one there somewhere.........





Thanks in advance!
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  #28  
Old 02-01-2015, 11:47 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCDiesel View Post
Should I use gasket dressing?
NO.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NCDiesel View Post
Does the paper shim go against the block or the bearing plate?
I don't understand this question......
It sandwiched between the two....

Does a head gasket go on the head, or the block?
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  #29  
Old 02-01-2015, 12:10 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
NO.




I don't understand this question......
It sandwiched between the two....

Does a head gasket go on the head, or the block?
Thanks on the gasket dressing question. As to the bearing plate - the bearing plate has a "normal" gasket and a paper shim - up to to three shims are included with the kit. They determine the end play of the crankshaft. The instructions call for one paper and the "normal" gasket as a place to start; and they imply this will be successful most of the time. So I should have worded the question:

Does the paper shim gasket go between the "normal" gasket the block, or between the "normal" gasket and the bearing plate?

As I mentioned, I cannot believe it matters as I conceive of a single reason as to which one would be more advantageous for eliminating leaks. But - hey: questions are cheap and ignorance is expensive (-:

Thanks again,
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  #30  
Old 02-01-2015, 12:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I know what the gasket and the shims are and what they're for..... BTDT.

No it doesn't matter. If it did the book would specify. The only difference between the "gasket" and the "shims" is the thickness of the material. They are all technically "gaskets".
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