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#11
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I pulled mine apart to clean. So glad I did! So, the basics of each valve are the same. I had pics until my phone card died. The cap will screw on to any location but the float valve end is different so must stay with the cap. It can go in any position physically. The real question is if the valves are ground to match the hole. On mine each valve appeared within 1/4 thou so I did just what you are asking. Yet to see if the valve will hold. It did pass my air test.
Good time to replace o-rings. Differences to note. CC is #4 ports and JD is #5. Also due to tank may need to get a swivel 90 for the center so it can be put on with the outer in place. |
#12
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782CC,
Good to know. I'm pretty much going to copy your setup with the extra cylinder to run the 3-point. I had the same idea, but your pictures sure helped. Were you able to use existing holes in the frame for the cylinder bracket? I haven't had a chance to look at the frame since I saw the picture of your bracket. I'll have to get a valve and get started.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#13
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The hole for the cylinder end was there but to large. I made the spacer with a lip to keep it centered. Bracket was easily bent to shape in the press. For the other two 3/8 bolts I did drill the frame.
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#14
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You may want to hold off on teh cylinder mount copy. the cylinder and the battery box occupy the same space by about 1/2 inch. I may raise the battery box/ seat pan. But now seeing if I can mod the box for the battery and not raise it.
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