1810 oil leak

Grand Pops 1810 · #1 03-28-2015, 11:51 PM

I've got an oil leak at the front of my Magnum 18. It's dripping off the bottom of the pto clutch. What does this indicate? Front main seal blown?

Leak is pretty bad, makes it impossible to use the mower deck because the oil drips on the PTO belt. Last season I had switched to 50 weight racing oil to reduce oil consumption, seemed like a good idea given these things run so hot anyways. Would thicker oil increase pressures and blow out the seal?

Where's the "shoot in the foot" icon?

bocephus1991 · #2 03-29-2015, 12:01 AM

I don't think the heavier weight oil would push the seal out, I wouldn't run heavier oil to slow or stop the leak. I'm afraid your going to have to replace the seal. It's more than likely the front crank seal leaking. It shouldn't be to hard to remove the pto clutch and replace. I would change it and put the correct weight oil in the engine.

Grand Pops 1810 · #3 03-29-2015, 12:18 AM

The 50 weight was because it burns some oil (but not a smoke screen). To replace the front seal, am I pulling the engine, or is this something done from the front? Cross fingers! I've pulled the engine before for the fuel pump and coil replacement, just hoping not to do that again so soon, only 2 seasons ago. Thanks Bocephus

bocephus1991 · #4 03-29-2015, 01:11 AM

You can call me Brian , well don't know if you have to pull the engine. You may try and look up the parts diagram of your engine or if you can take a pic of the front if the engine. others on here know more about your engine than I . I can try and look it up and let you know what I think.

Grand Pops 1810 · #5 03-29-2015, 01:14 AM

I've never had the bottom end apart on a 18. I'll find an exploded diagram, maybe I can just loosen the engine and lift it partially out of the frame. thanks Brian!

J-Mech · #6 03-29-2015, 01:32 AM

You don't have to remove the engine to replace the front seal. It can be done with it in the tractor.

On another note, I'd suggest not running50 weight oil. You'll just kill it faster. Too heavy for the lube system in that motor.

Grand Pops 1810 · #7 03-29-2015, 08:37 AM

Okay, I'll pull the PTO and see what I've got and order some parts. Thanks Johathan

bill682 · #8 03-29-2015, 08:49 AM

The PTO side is called the rear so make sure you get a rear main seal. Very common problem with the KT and Magnum twins. I don't like the rubber coated seal Kohler uses and now use a SKF seal.

FrankF3 · #9 03-30-2015, 12:06 PM

My father was having an oil burning issue on his 1862. He went to a heavier oil as well, then went through a couple crank seals behind the PTO. At that point in time we pulled the engine out and took off the sheet metal. We found the cooling fins were all plugged up with a mixture of dist, clippings and oil. It was running so hot the is would also intermittently cut out when the coil overheated. We dug out some Super Clean let it soak and pressure washed the engine down. It blew all the crud out of there. He is now using a 30W oil and usage has dropped right off. Cutting out from overheating has stopped with the new ignition module.

BTW - the crank seal is doing fine now.

Gaden · #10 03-31-2015, 12:08 PM

Changing this seal is a peace of cake, really, once you start taking parts off, you'll see what you have to do. DON'T take the pulley off with a puller, remove the brake drum (#4) first, then the bolt in the crank and the armature(#3) and rotor(#2) will slide off. Removing the field(#1) will expose the seal. Use a manual for all the specs involved for installing all the parts.