Well, it happened to me

[Gaden]

Originally Posted by gt383mag

try a little heat to soften up the locktite that might help but be cautious as its aluminum. heat will help thats why the welding washers and nuts works... this is how i look at it rite now part is useless you cant make it more useless rite? and also it is replaceable so worst case you find another one

Agreed, I already decided to try some heat and see if I can release the locktite, am currently waiting for the temperature to come up a bit (39 here) as I am working in my driveway. When I first started having trouble, I considered heat, but refrained due to the oily crud covering the case, since I need to try it, I'll clean it up and give it a go.
On a side note, I guess the bolts are really a blessing in disguise, if they all had come out like the first one, I would not have disassembled the differential, and would not have discovered the bad cone bearing.

[Gaden]

Even though it's rained 4 out of the last 6 days since my last post, I'm just about ready to put my tractor back to work.
Although I really liked Sam's suggestion of welding a washer, then a nut on the bolts, I didn't think it was viable for me, since I had already drilled all of the bolts to receive an easy out.(When I was successful with the very first one I tried, I went ahead and drilled them all.) Besides which, my son has sold his welder. I tried heat, but was afraid to get the aluminum too hot, so that didn't work, either, so I drilled the bolts to accept a 5/16 ths tap, screwed it in and it worked, the bigger shank allowed for more torque, and when the tap reached the end of the threads, it screwed the bolt out to the inside, where I could grab it with vice-grips One tightened up enough on the tap that it backed out with it. While I was at it, I used the tap in all of the holes including the bearing retainer, to remove the locktite and chase out any filings. That turned out to be a good idea, as a lot came out.
The cone bearing was only a little hard to find, but I got one. For anyone interested, it is #14138A, the one I got is a Timken. I don't understand why, if it's available, that all of the online supply houses list it as NLA. Anyway, the differential is back together, the axle carriers have new bearings and seals, and I'm waiting on the rain to stop so I can install them, the axles and everything else.

[gt383mag]

while your in there drill the case so the axle tubes can drain

[Gaden]

I thought about that, but there was no water at all in this machine, case or axle tubes, still might do it, though just in case.

[Gaden]

I had everything ready to go back together but had to wait for the first to roll around before I could spend any money, I'm sure some can relate to that. Took my measurements to a shop I used to work at and they burned them out on their laser cutter. $48;IMG_1376.jpg
Installed;
IMG_1382.jpg
With all due respect to Sam-Mac, I don't think these bolts break due to twisting of the frame, but from the torquing of the differential. If you look at the picture and imagine what happens every time the differential turns you can see what is happening at the fastening point. Those two (four) bolts keep getting banged back and forth until the stress becomes too much. The fact that they are way above center-line exacerbates the problem (leverage). Now, my rear is being held by nine (18) bolts, most of which surround the diff, with two being forward like a ladder bar on a dragster, (and serving the same purpose) which is what Sam's does. I am almost willing to bet that people who only mow have never had this problem as long as they ease into motion and don't jack-rabbit and that it is only those of us who push or pull do. In fact, I was pushing a lot of dirt for the two days prior to finding the broken bolts. Anyway, my tractor is back to work, I took the blade off and mowed today, happy to get this project finished up.