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  #11  
Old 04-06-2015, 05:38 PM
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cubby102 cubby102 is offline
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Yep trans fluid and filter should get you moving. If not your relief valves are shot. Bettin that the fluid has jelled and clogged the filter though
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2015, 07:07 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Yep that's the next step
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2015, 07:26 PM
landreo landreo is offline
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Just a lurker but I would think your charge pump jammed and broke the gear drive pin.
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  #14  
Old 04-06-2015, 08:42 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landreo View Post
Just a lurker but I would think your charge pump jammed and broke the gear drive pin.
Welcome to the forum!

A busted charge pump is possible, but it is a more unlikely failure. It does happen, but not as often as the other things brought up in this thread.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2015, 11:00 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Originally Posted by jwakeman View Post
Thanks for all the advice!

Here's an update. The valves seem to be fine, so we put them back. Fired the tractor up, and the drive shaft does spin into the trans. (someone along the way cut a big rectangular hole on the tunnel cover, so I can easily see top of that portion of the trans) This mean the pins are all fine?

Look at the back of the tractor, and can see the shaft on what looks like the back of the pump spinning as well.

Trans fluid/filter change next?
You will be wishing you changed the filter and the fluid first, cause I'm betting it will move after that. When I switched one of my hydros to automatic relief valves it seemed to take a little bit of running before it moved but it might have been just a coincidence.
Good luck
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  #16  
Old 04-10-2015, 02:38 PM
landreo landreo is offline
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Normally I would say to try the easiest first which is fluids, filters etc...
But I have a 123 that I bought from someone who said it just stopped working. Same story as yours. It had a broken pin in the charge pump gear/rotor.
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2015, 04:04 PM
jwakeman jwakeman is offline
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Thanks for the advice again everyone! I pulled the rear cover, and let the fluid drain. Can't really call it fluid... maybe coffee mixed with peanut butter? Anyways, flushed with brake cleaner, changed filter, and re-filled. I got about 5 qts in it before it came out. Ran it, then put another quart in again before it ran out. Worked like a charm!

Next question - while trying to get it on a trailer I heard a pop, and then had no resistance on the steering wheel, won't steer anymore. Turning the wheel does pull the shaft on the left front wheel, but no motion on the wheels or the linkage going to the right tire. Any guesses?
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2015, 04:18 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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The spiral pin or the top of the spindle broke.

Take the "drag link arm" off the top of the spindle, and see whats going on in there.

You should be able to just twist it back and forth while pulling up and it should come off.
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2015, 09:12 PM
jwakeman jwakeman is offline
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Yep it was the pin. After I pulled the pieces out, I noticed that the wheel wasn't on the hub right. Took it apart and the wheel bearing assembly had sheared and broken. Time for another run to the dealership.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2015, 09:45 PM
jwakeman jwakeman is offline
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The saga continues. Went to Cub dealer, got new bearing - inner and outer. Get it on the tractor, and when the wheel is pushed as far back as possible on the spindle, there's around 1/8" of space between the outer bearing collar and the washer holding the wheel on. Am I missing a piece somewhere?

Got (2) of part 1 on this drawing: http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c.../front-wheels/
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