Model 1 tiller question

[steved]

Good question about the temper in the steel tube. On all the rebuild post I've read here, everyone has had to use heat to separate them. As tight as they were I don't see any other way. I was planning on using the tiller this weekend for the first time but with the rain we are having now it probably will not happen. I guess if the tube ends up warping in the dirt I'll just have to fab some new ones. Have you read Sugarmaker's thread on this forum? Also, someone else just finished one that had some good info. Good luck!

[64fleetside]

I used a brake cylinder hone on the tubes to clean them up so they would slide on/off, used a bunch of anti-seize inside, plugged the tube ends and extra holes with freeze plugs to keep out dirt. So far I have tilled my about 50'x40' or so garden twice and tried it out in other areas, no issues at all, this thing is a beast.

[tobo127]

Encouraging to hear that the parts seem to hold up after using heat to separate the parts. Time will tell on long term durability. My red clay will be a test! If I can get the parts to slide on and off easily there won't be a time they will rust together again. I plan on storing the tiller inside when not in use and will clean and lubricate the shafts after each use. A few minutes spent after using is sure easier than hours spent when rusted and seized!

[tobo127]

Everything taken apart, bearings are good and tight. The PO had cut a couple holes in the formed half to either add lube or more possibly to replace the pins in the input shaft. Looks like he had some issues with pins staying in (he used split pins not spirol pins) as there were four or five at the bottom of the case just floating around ................ along with a 3/16" chainsaw file in one piece! Glad I decided to take it all apart. Now on to clean and paint, after I close up the holes. Might use a half coupling and plug for one of them for ease of adding lube (initial charge and later if needed).

[tobo127]

Continued on repairing the holes in the case. I welded a half coupling to the top hole, and closed in the second hole. The chains look like new and everything is going together fine. Cut a new gasket for the case halves and with the new 3/4" half coupling it should make for an easy time to load the case with a loose grease. All there is left to do now is mount the output shaft bearing cups clean and paint the main tin shield and extension tins. I also replaced the worn 1/2" pivot bolts to minimize the wiggle in the linkage. The original bolts used were not quite long enough and one side of both upper and lower arms were located on the thread part of the bolt, which quickly wore to a smaller diameter and caused a lot of slop in the arm hole. A bolt with a longer shoulder area was used and cut the threads just long enough for the locking nut.