Required parts for Brinly hitch

[PennDude]

I'm new to the forum and new to Cub Cadets. I just picked up a 149 that I'll be using for general duties around my property. I would like to put in a large garden, so I'm looking at a Brinly moldboard plow. My 149 doesn't have a lift in the rear, for whatever reason. I'm not sure if this was an option originally or not but it's not there.

Since I'm so new to Cubs I don't know what parts I need or where to buy them to have a working Brinly hitch. I know where to get the Brinly hitch, just not the Cub parts. The search option wasn't as helpful as I had hoped.

[sawdustdad]

partstree.com is your friend:

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...hitch-drawbar/

You'll need to find the parts used as most are no longer available new.

You can buy some parts here:
http://xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%20...ve%20Hitch.htm

Check the classified section of this forum or contact some of the sponsors...

[olds45512]

Here's a pic of my 108 which will be the same as your 149.

[mattoney]

Originally Posted by PennDude

I'm new to the forum and new to Cub Cadets. I just picked up a 149 that I'll be using for general duties around my property. I would like to put in a large garden, so I'm looking at a Brinly moldboard plow. My 149 doesn't have a lift in the rear, for whatever reason. I'm not sure if this was an option originally or not but it's not there.

Since I'm so new to Cubs I don't know what parts I need or where to buy them to have a working Brinly hitch. I know where to get the Brinly hitch, just not the Cub parts. The search option wasn't as helpful as I had hoped.

It helps to have a bit of explanation here. If you look on Parts Tree link, you're going to need to find items 1-6. In theory, you should already have a draw bar, and that's what 7 is. I have yet to see a Cub without one, but somebody could have removed it over time. Item 3 will bolt up to your lift mechanism with a couple 1/4-20 bolts. Item 4 pins on with a cotter pin and runs down the tractor inside the frame rail and sticks out the back. Item 2 pivots on the rod (item 1) which is slid through holes in the rear frame above the transaxle and pinned to keep from falling off. Then, for Item #6, you remove your drawbar (Item 7), slide the lower hitch between the rear housing cover and the drawbar, then bolt everything back together. You'll probably lose a little fluid out of the rear end, so it might not be a bad idea to drain it, clean it, and check it out anyway while you have it apart. Some will also take this as an opportunity to upgrade to a longer bolt, or even a grade higher than what's in it for extra strength. The concern was pulling threads out of the cast iron housing.

Everything Sawdustdad sent you from Parts Tree is what is referred to as the Cub Cadet 3 pt hitch. That's half the battle. Then you need to find what's called a Brinly adaptor. This is where his second link to Xtreme Motorworks comes in. They manufacture new (and heavier duty) Brinly Hitch adaptors that bolt/pin up to the existing Cub Cadet 3pt hitch. The very first picture at a the top of the page shows you everything you need to make it go. If you don't want to spend that much for new, there are plenty of used ones floating around on Craigslist, eBay, or the for sale section here. I've seen dozens at swap meets too, but you have to be careful or you'll come home with more parts than you intended to buy!

The picture PennDude sent is a great image of what the finished assembly will look like. (Nice job by the way!)

Sorry this explanation is so short. Lunch break is over. Holler if you have questions because someone more knowledgeable will come along and be happy to answer!

Once you have both assemblies, you'll be good to plow, disk, rake, cart, level, etc. Have fun!

[PennDude]

What an awesome explanation guys. Thank you for breaking it down Barney Style for me! Much appreciated. Here's a picture of my 149s rear end, . It does have a draw bar and that's it. Another member PMd me and stated he has the parts for the lift, so this is working out a lot better than I had imagined.

What a great community I just joined!

[Jeff in Pa]

To use a plow, you'll need a sleeve hitch adapter which I make
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

[Cub Cadet 123]

Looks like someone has bent your inside wells of your fenders in. I do not think that it will affect your 3 point hitch actuation, but might be something that you want to bend back....maybe.

Yes, there is a lot of great advice on this forum. You find some of the nicest people riding cubs.

Cub Cadet 123

[J-Rodz168]

PennDude's pic has me a bit puzzled. Besides for the bent inner fenders, i noticed it doesnt have breaks, both rotors missing too. Was it converted to the internal wet type?

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by J-Rodz168

PennDude's pic has me a bit puzzled. Besides for the bent inner fenders, i noticed it doesnt have breaks, both rotors missing too. Was it converted to the internal wet type?

the rearend was probably replaced with one from an older tractor.

[PennDude]

Originally Posted by J-Rodz168

PennDude's pic has me a bit puzzled. Besides for the bent inner fenders, i noticed it doesnt have breaks, both rotors missing too. Was it converted to the internal wet type?

Let me be the first to say that I know nothing about Cub Cadet tractor's and I just inherited this one from my wife's grandfather. A family friend picked up this 149 along with a 129 and pieced them together to give me a running tractor. I believe the wheels and tires are from the 129 and are wider than what was on the 149. The 149 had turf tires and I wanted ag tires, so he swapped them. The tractor does have a disc break though.

I'm guessing the inner fenders are bent to accommodate the wider tires.