Poor K181 couldn't take it-

[dvogtvpe]

I've seen allot of rod failures, never saw one take the governor out. if I was going to guess the tab on the governor rod broke off, the gear fell out and got beat up. did you get to rough when you adjusted the governor to the carb? could have gotten bits of plastic in the oil feed hole and cause the failure or it over sped. some of the damage could have been done before you started working on it. the block is usable if its not cracked. just chamfer the sharp edges a bit

[timbo2]

Originally Posted by IACubCadet

On your connecting rod cap- Was the oil hole towards the cam or away from the cam before it blew?? I've seen this a few times and it ends up looking like what you have. If it was away from the cam, it won't get enough oil to stay lubricated, especially at higher RPMs.

Don't know - this was my first time in a crankcase. Only got as far as the head gasket and valves before. Thanks though I will keep that in mind. Why does that side get more oil?

[timbo2]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

I've seen allot of rod failures, never saw one take the governor out. if I was going to guess the tab on the governor rod broke off, the gear fell out and got beat up. did you get to rough when you adjusted the governor to the carb? could have gotten bits of plastic in the oil feed hole and cause the failure or it over sped. some of the damage could have been done before you started working on it. the block is usable if its not cracked. just chamfer the sharp edges a bit

I do think the g'nor was failing or already gone. The cross shaft didn't adjust nearly as straightforward as the 1450 for instance. The shaft would hit increasing resistance vs. a firm stop when I went through process from the manual. I also don't like the round spring linkage that goes on the cross shaft. I likely messed that up.

Thanks-

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by timbo2

Why does that side get more oil?

Because that engine has no pressure lube. The dipper on the rod splashes oil up into the hole. It get's more lube because of the direction of rotation of the engine. It's not that it doesn't get enough lube if you install it backwards...... it doesn't get any.

[timbo2]

Thanks Jonathan-

Still can't figure out the timing marks on the crankshaft. I don't see the dashes as shown on page 6 of this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ng+mark&page=6

[dvogtvpe]

you won't have a nice mark like the other crank you linked to because that's a 14 crank. you may have dot. I can make something out in the lower pic that looks like a dot. or shrapnel damage. don't fear. if you put the cam so the valves are at split overlap and install the crank at the TDC position who needs timing marks.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

you won't have a nice mark like the other crank you linked to because that's a 14 crank. you may have dot. I can make something out in the lower pic that looks like a dot. or shrapnel damage. don't fear. if you put the cam so the valves are at split overlap and install the crank at the TDC position who needs timing marks.

[timbo2]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

you won't have a nice mark like the other crank you linked to because that's a 14 crank. you may have dot. I can make something out in the lower pic that looks like a dot. or shrapnel damage. don't fear. if you put the cam so the valves are at split overlap and install the crank at the TDC position who needs timing marks.

Is this what you noticed?

Thanks-

[northernredneck]

Holy grenade! You were right that rod is cashed. As for timing marks my k241 has a dot on the cam and a dash on the crank. Best of luck to you.