ISO mounts questions - Page 2

budscub · #11 08-20-2015, 07:22 PM

ON my 1650 I too had some rounding over due to loose mounting. I was able to build mine up using the Aluminum " brazing" rods and a propane torch. I then ran a bottoming tap into the holes, and used threaded rod studs rather than bolts to ensure I had maximum thread engagement. I put a bolt in the hole while building it up as not to loose my thread start position. I didn't try to build it up too close to the bolt hole. It has held up well so far that I know of but, I haven't had the engine back out since.

ol'George · #12 08-20-2015, 07:53 PM

On the iso rails,----
I had a pair that the pan pads had pounded for so long, that they were deeply worn and uneven with pockets pounded in the rails.
I welded the rail pockets up, and milled them flat in the B'port making them as new.
also I bought a really nice cast iron pan on evil pray for $29 eliminating having to
Heli coil and machine the pan pads flat, to insure staying tight.
If you have everything flat they will stay tight with just lock washers and proper torque.

rdeyoe · #13 08-21-2015, 10:51 AM

budscub- yeah, that's what I'm planning on doing also (hehehe..."great minds" and all that). The keyserts I have are a 1/2"-13 external thread. Going to drill out the holes, tap to the 1/2" size then drop a bolt in each hole. I'm going to try the gas grill / propane torch method of heating the pan and braze the pads up and around the bolt threads. I'll file them off (don't have a mill) flat, and put in the keyserts once they are level in the cradle. The braze is under a compression load, so I'm not worrying about it coming off, and the steel keyserts should help hold it and keep it from banging around if the aluminum crushes. I've already filled / ground the cradle bars. They're not "machine shop" flat, but waaaay better than the divots that were there.

Ol'George- wish I had a mill to make these all perfectly flat, but for me that's all going to be hand work. I got the pads on the cradle pretty much weld-filled and ground flat, much better now. I was looking for aluminum 4043 welding sticks to fix the pan, but accidently got brazing rods. I think i can make them work though. My main concern was that the pan was cracked. There was an oil spot under the engine after a couple days of hanging. After I got the pan off, my girl cleaned the heck out of it and we set it flat on some boards. Filled it to the rim with kerosene and let sit for a couple days. The only leaks were coming from the drain plug. Someone had put two washers on it, i guess trying to seal it or something. That should be an easy fix. No cracks in the pan itself. Everything will be locked down with washers and a tad of red loctite when it all goes back together. Hopefulle that will be this weekend.

ol'George · #14 08-21-2015, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdeyoe

budscub- yeah, that's what I'm planning on doing also (hehehe..."great minds" and all that). The keyserts I have are a 1/2"-13 external thread. Going to drill out the holes, tap to the 1/2" size then drop a bolt in each hole. I'm going to try the gas grill / propane torch method of heating the pan and braze the pads up and around the bolt threads. I'll file them off (don't have a mill) flat, and put in the keyserts once they are level in the cradle. The braze is under a compression load, so I'm not worrying about it coming off, and the steel keyserts should help hold it and keep it from banging around if the aluminum crushes. I've already filled / ground the cradle bars. They're not "machine shop" flat, but waaaay better than the divots that were there.

Ol'George- wish I had a mill to make these all perfectly flat, but for me that's all going to be hand work. I got the pads on the cradle pretty much weld-filled and ground flat, much better now. I was looking for aluminum 4043 welding sticks to fix the pan, but accidently got brazing rods. I think i can make them work though. My main concern was that the pan was cracked. There was an oil spot under the engine after a couple days of hanging. After I got the pan off, my girl cleaned the heck out of it and we set it flat on some boards. Filled it to the rim with kerosene and let sit for a couple days. The only leaks were coming from the drain plug. Someone had put two washers on it, i guess trying to seal it or something. That should be an easy fix. No cracks in the pan itself. Everything will be locked down with washers and a tad of red loctite when it all goes back together. Hopefulle that will be this weekend.

Check your pan to see if someone put too long of a rail mounting bolt into it cracking it into the inside.
They will weep if it has happened, and hard to see but it is not an uncommon
problem.
Also consider a good cast iron pan ,they are not that costly and solve several problems.
I see good ones pop up regular for around $30 on evil pray.
You can't weld/repair/helicoil for that.

rdeyoe · #15 08-21-2015, 05:51 PM

The bolt holes look good, no weeping there. There weren't any bolts, except one holding the engine in (and boy did it shake around in there!), and the one bolt that was there was backed out probably three threads.

I looked for some CI pans on ebay...there was just one Cub deep sump out there...for $52. Maybe I'll keep looking for one, but i'm going with the current pan for now. Shoot, it ain't all that hard to get the motor out if i do find one....

johncub7172 · #16 08-22-2015, 01:46 AM

Did your Kohler K321AQS happen to have balance gears? My later model 1450 did so if fact have them. Now would be the time to remove those at all this oil pan conversation.

My early 1450 is my pride and joy! I have done the cradle mod, went with genuine iso replacements, up graded to the cast deep sump pan, and replaced the rag joints on both ends of the drive line as well as a new cooling fan.

While I was there, I removed any slop from the front axel pivot pin, and rebuilt/installed the 606 nice bearing up grade to the Ross assembly.

Just a few things I did while it makes sense at the point of repair. I enjoy the thread.

ol'George · #17 08-22-2015, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdeyoe

The bolt holes look good, no weeping there. There weren't any bolts, except one holding the engine in (and boy did it shake around in there!), and the one bolt that was there was backed out probably three threads.

I looked for some CI pans on ebay...there was just one Cub deep sump out there...for $52. Maybe I'll keep looking for one, but i'm going with the current pan for now. Shoot, it ain't all that hard to get the motor out if i do find one....

FWIW other color equipment used those oil pans so you can broaden your search to "kohler oil pan"
just do your research on parts tree checking part ## as well as visual for comparison.
If it works well for you now, it prolly will not give trouble in the future, but good to know another way out ( I can't say another way to skin a cat) as
PETA ppl are everywhere Ha,LOL!

rdeyoe · #18 08-22-2015, 08:20 PM

Hmm..."other color" equipment, huh? I may have to check those models if this aluminum fix doesn't work out. I hadn't seen any other models besides cubs that had the deep sump pan. Good to know. I've had another member approach me with an offer for one, and it may come to that, but I'm wanting to learn some new things anyway. BTW, this site is great. Lots of useful information and helpful people without all the elitist BS of some forum sites. I do a lot of car work and one model i work on, that forum must be full of 16 year olds constantly watching Fast and Furious..."Duuuude, you need this brand of oil drain plug to get rid of that engine knock, and a BOV...DUH!"....geez..

Hey johncub! I checked and no, no balance gears. Had already read about those. I imagine that a bit more balance would help the shakes some and I've seen the Kirk balance plate kit. I may do that sometime in the future or during a rebuild but I think i'll try it this way first. Just hoping these universal iso mounts work out. I've also got some new rag joints and a hydro fan...missing a blade. Probably could use the drive shaft bearings/couplers, but can't do those just yet.

RE: the front axle pin; I have a lot of slop in my axle too. Should I clamp it closer, shim it, weld something? It seems to turn left very close, but right turns are twice the diameter circle. None of the rods seem bent. The steering is very easy (but considering the super steering kit, while i'm in here), but there's a lot of axle slop and spindle slop. Haven't taken that stuff apart yet. Is it just a spirol pin in the axle pin to get it out? Hasn't been priority yet.

Yeah, i think i'm already in love with this one. I notice around the site that the quietlines seem to be the "well, yeah, whatever" cub cadet sometimes. When i was trying to find one, it was either the quietlines or the 1x9 series, 149 preferably. That, or one of the x82 series but I wanted something yellow (yeah, i know, but there aren't many of the yellow x82 around).

bkw3614 · #19 08-23-2015, 12:14 AM

RDeyoe,

None of the AQS engines had balance gears in them. Kohler didn't put them in when they built the engine. Those engines in Cub Cadets built before the Quietline, those which started with a starter/generator, did have the gears.

With the engine out of your tractor, it is an easy repair to squeeze the front axle channel together. Here is how you do it: http://cubfaq.com/axlepivot.html Be sure that you replace the pivot pin. That pin should be available from the sponsors above.

While you are at it, Rebuilding your steering box is a good idea, too. Here is how you do it: http://cubfaq.com/steeringrebuild.html Check your tie rod ends on both the tie rod and the drag link.

Before you know it, your tractor will be like new.

Brian Wittman

Berwil · #20 08-23-2015, 12:22 AM

For your steering, try centering your steering arm between the steering box and axle. Disconnect the steering arm at the axle. Turn the steering wheel full right, then count the turns to full left. Turn it to the right half the amount of turns, now adjust the rod ends to make the steering arm the proper length to bolt together without moving the wheel. This should give you equal left/right. Some people squeeze the channel back up and install a new pin, others install a bolt to pull the channel shut, I think the bolt head needs to be modified for clearance though.

Bill

Edit: I see in another post Roland already described centering, shortening it up is the way to go.