Dash Repair Methods

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

CADplans, I figured that with the JB weld being a harder material, it could hold up better. Not only do I have the "ridge" caused but the hood rubbing, but the actual edge of the dash where where the 90 degree bend is that forms a flange all the way around where the hood hits, is worn down paper thin at the bottom edges. That will be fun to build back up.

Mine was worn all the way around down to the bottom. I put tape next to the "groove" on both sides of the groove. I filled the groove very carefully!!

I figured I would spend the time making the JB look good, rather than sanding after hardening.

The tape was removed about 20-40 minutes after the JB was applied. I did no post hardening sanding/finishing.

So far so good!!

[FrankF3]

I went to a local outlet store today. They had some of those "As Seen on TV" Caulk PRO kits. These are the ones that have the silicone tools with various radiuses. This could work out pretty good with the JB Weld. I'll try to get to it some nite after work this week or this coming weekend.

[inspectorudy]

I watched a TV test of JB Weld on a metal table where it was used to construct the table by applying JB to all of the joints and seams. The same table was built using a MIG welder. They were both dropped from a two story window to see what the differences were if any. The JB table exploded into every single piece that was used to construct the table. The MIG table was bent. I have made extensions to plastic parts that have held up under heavy use and I used the dual applicator epoxy product where the two tubes are are connected to one applicator. I used duct tape to create the underside of the area I was adding to and duct tape to create the edges also. Once it hardens I pulled the tape off and sanded it smooth. They are still in use today. It is much stronger than JB and if drilled will hold threads much better. I have found that using JB requires that the patch must be supported on ALL sides to stay intact. This is just my experience and I am sure that JB Weld has many good uses and people have had good experiences with it. I have not.

[FrankF3]

So are you saying JB would be the wrong stuff to use for this?

[FrankF3]

Well taking it slow and coming along on the dash repair with the J&B. I used a spreader that comes with the caulk pro kit. I filled the grooves up and had it level with rest of the surface. I let it dry for a few days, then put another skim coat on it. I'll try to post some pictures when I get a chance.

[FrankF3]

The dash had taken a back burner since I had some car repairs that needed to be done first. I finished filling all the worn grooves on the dash with JB Weld using a Pro-Caulk kit to keep things level. I have it all sanded down really nice and am ready for painting. I need to find out what the best paint to use on the dash is. If the paint is too soft it will wear right through, too hard as in the case of an epoxy type paint, it might chip and flake. What did you guys use?

[4SPEED]

just a suggestion. but the plastic parts on my Trans Am's I fix , I plastic weld them to fix them .






and for fiberglass




pulled a mold from another shaker

[FrankF3]

I know it's been a while, but I finally got some time to finish the repair on the 782D dash I have. I ended up using skim coats of JB weld, letting it harden for a good couple of days then hitting it with another coat and repeating the process until the worn spots were filled. I used one of those spreaders you see on TV commercials for silicone seal, and has multiple radius's (radii ?). The various radius's help to blend in at the flange that goes all the way around the dash where it meets the hood. I then used an orbital sander with 220 grit to take down the high spots gradually moving to finer paper. I finished it off with several coats of Dupli-Color semi-gloss black # DA1603 . Where holes were worn through the dash, i simply used scotch tape as a temporary backing to place the JB Weld on until the first coat was dry. I then removed the tape and built it up to match the surrounding area. Let me know what you think and how it looks to you.

IMG_3930n.jpg
IMG_3931n.jpg
IMG_3932n.jpg

[Oak]

That turned out real nice Frank. My 882 dash is still holding up well so I think you'll be good for another 30 years.

[Workinprogress]

I used an epoxy putty like the below links. This way I never had to remove the dash from the tractor. I will get a couple pictures as soon as I can. I never finished sanding the epoxy down or painting because I wasn't sure how it would hold. Over two years have passed and it is still holding.

http://www.jbweld.com/products/steel...xy-putty-stick

Or it might have been
http://www.jbweld.com/collections/ep...ld-epoxy-putty