1572 driveshaft coiled roll pin replacements

sbauerz28 · #1 11-30-2015, 07:26 AM

I broke the roll pin in the clutch on my 1572 over the weekend. It's item #10 in the diagram below. It's part # 710-3035 .25" X 2.25" and of coarse it's NLA.

Does anyone have a good lead for a replacement pin. I know It needs to be a coiled roll pin and I think there also hardened. I found some pins at McMaster-Carr in the link below, but I'm not sure if there's something else out there I should instead of these.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a429/=10180nn

Sam Mac · #2 11-30-2015, 07:32 AM

The McMaster pin should work just fine. You may need to shorten it. A cut off wheel in a die grinder works well for that task. For what it's worth most people remove those clutch's and just go to a solid drive shaft or up grade to the CV style. I'm sure Oak will be along with more info.

sbauerz28 · #3 11-30-2015, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

The McMaster pin should work just fine. You may need to shorten it. A cut off wheel in a die grinder works well for that task. For what it's worth most people remove those clutch's and just go to a solid drive shaft or up grade to the CV style. I'm sure Oak will be along with more info.

Thanks Sam

I have thought about removing the clutch, but I'm worried about getting the tractor to start in the cold. I know my 1450 has a real hard time turning the hydro when its below about 20°. If I didn't use it in the winter, or lived down south I would remove the clutch in a second.

Oak · #4 11-30-2015, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

The McMaster pin should work just fine. You may need to shorten it. A cut off wheel in a die grinder works well for that task. For what it's worth most people remove those clutch's and just go to a solid drive shaft or up grade to the CV style. I'm sure Oak will be along with more info.

Right on Sam.

FrankF3 · #5 11-30-2015, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbauerz28

Thanks Sam

I have thought about removing the clutch, but I'm worried about getting the tractor to start in the cold. I know my 1450 has a real hard time turning the hydro when its below about 20°. If I didn't use it in the winter, or lived down south I would remove the clutch in a second.

I live in Massachusetts and I am the original owner of my 1572 that I purchased back in 1987. I removed my driveshaft/clutch I think a couple of years ago. I was worrried just as you are with getting it to start in the winter. I use Rotella 15W-40 in my 1572. While the garage I have it stored in is not heated, it is insulated and attached to the house to take advantage of any heat escaping from the house. For the most part, any water on the floor does not freeze and stays in a liquid state except if we are in a real deep freeze so it is usually just above 32F. When that does happen, I have a magnet heater that attaches to the oil pan and I have it connected through one of those heavy-duty appliance type timers. If I know I have to get out and be at work by a certain time, I'll set the timer to turn on 2 - 3 hours before I need to blow out the yard so I'll have an easier start.