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  #41  
Old 01-26-2016, 08:59 PM
adamo adamo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Post a pic of you battery.

Pic of battery and I believe someone else asked for all the connections so I took a pic of the distributor.
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File Type: jpg Battery.jpg (26.9 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg distributor.jpg (30.7 KB, 68 views)
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  #42  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:07 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Do you have a headlamp for a car around? The old glass (like a incandescent) style?

Or perhaps does this 129 have a working headlight?
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  #43  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:22 PM
adamo adamo is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Do you have a headlamp for a car around? The old glass (like a incandescent) style?

Or perhaps does this 129 have a working headlight?
Yes I have headlights on the 129. They work!
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  #44  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:35 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Yes I have headlights on the 129. They work!
Ok
Do this:
Remove one of the headlamps (Ok, so you don't have to remove it, but disconnect it.) Make two wires for it. Run one wire to a good ground, or the battery neg. (Or just leave the negative wire attached to the light.) Run the other to the "A" post on the S/G. (Make this wire long enough to reach the battery. We may need to test other stuff here later.) Don't attach it permanently. Hit the key to start it. Does the light light up? If yes, how bright?
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  #45  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:36 PM
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budscub budscub is offline
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Default I still suspect the battery cable

Hey J-mech, correct me if I am wrong, but if he jumps the two large terminals with a screw driver, does that not leave only the battery cables,, battery itself, or the starter generator to ground to be at fault? If the starter generator is good.
I was looking back at the photos, in the one photo the terminal on the Positive battery post doesn't look like a good crimp. Of course it is difficult to tell in the photo, but the cable looks swollen just as it makes the turn coming from the battery, looks like it maybe full of corrosion.
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Gary
1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers
1969 125 42"
1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics
1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard
Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn
Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12
2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow
74 "Green 100 "John"
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  #46  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:39 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by budscub View Post
Hey J-mech, correct me if I am wrong, but if he jumps the two large terminals with a screw driver, does that not leave only the battery cables,, battery itself, or the starter generator to ground to be at fault? If the starter generator is good.
I was looking back at the photos, in the one photo the terminal on the Positive battery post doesn't look like a good crimp. Of course it is difficult to tell in the photo, but the cable looks swollen just as it makes the turn coming from the battery, looks like it maybe full of corrosion.
Yes, you are correct..... BUT:
This is a teaching moment. Instead of using a tool and try to burn something up, I am going to teach everyone how to test a circuit using wire and a headlamp. Use the headlamp because it has a somewhat large load. Much larger load than a test light. This way, if the light is dim, we will know if the voltage is low. Sure, we could use a meter, but sometimes a meter will lie. One good strand in a wire will carry 12V, but it will not light up that headlamp. In 2 or 3 short tests, we will know exactly where the issue is. No guessing.


It will be fun.
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  #47  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:58 PM
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budscub budscub is offline
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Default agreed

Thank you sir, Nothing like teaching them to fish. Good Idea using the head light.
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Gary
1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers
1969 125 42"
1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics
1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard
Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn
Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12
2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow
74 "Green 100 "John"
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  #48  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:14 PM
adamo adamo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Ok
Do this:
Remove one of the headlamps (Ok, so you don't have to remove it, but disconnect it.) Make two wires for it. Run one wire to a good ground, or the battery neg. (Or just leave the negative wire attached to the light.) Run the other to the "A" post on the S/G. (Make this wire long enough to reach the battery. We may need to test other stuff here later.) Don't attach it permanently. Hit the key to start it. Does the light light up? If yes, how bright?
Ok! Nice and bright when I turn the key. Also know that I attached the negative to the ground post to the frame from the SG.
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File Type: jpg headlight.jpg (20.4 KB, 67 views)
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  #49  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:20 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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So, with the light hooked up to the "A" post of the starter, you hit the key and it lights up. If that is correct, your starter is bad/broken.

Just a quick test, disconnect the "test light", hold the key in the start position, take a hammer and give the S/G some "love taps" on the side. Does it try to turn/ start?
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  #50  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:46 PM
adamo adamo is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
So, with the light hooked up to the "A" post of the starter, you hit the key and it lights up. If that is correct, your starter is bad/broken.

Just a quick test, disconnect the "test light", hold the key in the start position, take a hammer and give the S/G some "love taps" on the side. Does it try to turn/ start?

Except when I run jumper cables from a battery to the s/g it turns over. It is with the A terminal lead disconnected from tractor.
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File Type: jpg SG jump.jpg (32.7 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg Battery jump.jpg (19.7 KB, 64 views)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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