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Reload this Page Kohler k241a Rebuild
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  #41  
Old 02-04-2016, 08:55 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Got the bearing out with a punch, thanks Jmech. The block is now ready to go to the machine shop, along with the crankshaft. Just have to make copies of the specs they'll need to check the various parts of the block. Looks like I'm gonna have to replace the bearing, the rubber is torn up a bit and the bearing doesn't spin smoothly. Looked at the bearing, its a New Departure 43308 and its made in the USA, already found a variety of sources to get a replacement so that's nice.
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  #42  
Old 02-04-2016, 09:00 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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If it's much of a shop they shouldn't need any engine specs to bore or look at it. I didn't have to give my shop anything other than the block, head and crank. I did have them install new valves for me. Yes they ground the valve seats too along with boring and turning the crank.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #43  
Old 02-04-2016, 09:18 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsauce View Post
Looks like I'm gonna have to replace the bearing, the rubber is torn up a bit and the bearing doesn't spin smoothly.
The PTO, or the crankshaft bearing? The crankshaft bearing should be an open bearing. No rubber.

I agree with Brain. Shop should have the specs. If they don't..... I'd be nervous.
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  #44  
Old 02-05-2016, 01:08 AM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
The PTO, or the crankshaft bearing? The crankshaft bearing should be an open bearing. No rubber.

I agree with Brain. Shop should have the specs. If they don't..... I'd be nervous.
Its the PTO side Crankshaft bearing, maybe the rubber is a seal? Its stuck onto the bearing pretty well. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow so you guys can see exactly what I'm looking at. I've never taken things to a machine shop so I didn't know they have specs, thought I'd make it easier for them if anything. Thanks for all the help so far, this is my first engine rebuild so thanks for hanging in there with me.
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  #45  
Old 02-05-2016, 09:37 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Here is what I'm talking about. That ring came out of the seal or whatever it is attached to the bearing.
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File Type: jpg image.jpg (16.8 KB, 173 views)
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  #46  
Old 02-05-2016, 10:07 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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That is a crank seal. It isn't part of the bearing. Scrape it off.
Was there another one in the block?
Maybe someone put a new one on top of the old and shoved that one into the bearing.
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  #47  
Old 02-05-2016, 10:59 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Got it off but it cost me a screwdriver, broke the tip off trying to split it. A pair of pliers finally did the trick and a few whacks with a hammer. The bearing is smooth but gets jammed every few turns, I can't see anything on the track. Should I replace the bearing?
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  #48  
Old 02-05-2016, 11:07 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Yeah. Looks like the outer race is chipped. It may have a crack in it.
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  #49  
Old 02-05-2016, 11:57 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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X2 on replacing that bearing. If it catches, that's not right.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #50  
Old 02-06-2016, 03:06 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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So while I wait for the block to be inspected and worked on, any tips on how to clean the rust/paint off the small parts from the engine such as governor arm, fuel pump cover, breather assembly cover, etc?
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