LED head lights - Page 2

x.bhamcb · #11 03-07-2017, 05:12 PM

If it was a discrete LED you would be correct, but in this case the "LED" bulb consists of a circuit that contains LEDs. The circuit can be (and in this case is) set up such that the polarity of the source doesn't matter.

I just bench tested one of the bulbs. It lights when connected directly to a 12v battery in either polarity configuration.

I guess that gets me back to a problem with the wiring or switch. Is there any good way to get to the inside of the steering tower to troubleshoot the switch?

J-Mech · #12 03-07-2017, 05:20 PM

Sounds like you know all about them. Should be easy to troubleshoot.

sir_lancealot · #13 03-07-2017, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb

I am aware of the potential for polarity problems, in fact currently I have one bulb wired each way to keep hat base covered. (They may have resolved the polarity problem internally with these bulbs considering they are sold as AC/DC and superbright is usually good about telling you when a bulb is sensitive to polarity)

Yes, if they are an AC/DC bulb, then polarity won't matter due to the rectifiers in the assembly. However, that info wasn't provided at the beginning. Did you check the fuse for the lights? How about the wires going from the switch to the grille? An animal could have chewed through them or maybe they deteriorated. Check that all that is good before you go replacing parts.

JimmyG · #14 03-10-2017, 08:24 AM

All LED's are DC and driven by a driver depending on the type of bulb. Some are constant voltage and some are constant current. The drivers come in both internal and external versions. Most consumer LED's are internal driver types. The drivers regulate the voltage and or current from the supply to drive and protect the bulb. When AC power is used the driver also has a rectifier circuit to provide the DC. With your test on the battery and the lights working and a voltage only test on the tractor you have a current issue. It could be a corroded connector, a mostly broken wire or a switch with bad contacts.
Jimmy

x.bhamcb · #15 03-10-2017, 10:33 AM

Yes I checked the fuse. A quick visual inspection of the wires didn't turn up anything obvious. The lights haven't made it far enough up the priority list to get another look yet.

I haven't gotten to the point of replacing parts yet. At this point if I was going to replace anything it would be wire.

What are the positions on the light switch? It seems to be a 4 position rotary switch, but I haven't been able to find any info on what the positions are. Are hey just different brightness levels for the halogen bulbs?

drivinlow · #16 03-11-2017, 06:33 AM

Switch positions on my original 149 are ON and OFF thats it.

J-Mech · #17 03-11-2017, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb

What are the positions on the light switch? It seems to be a 4 position rotary switch, but I haven't been able to find any info on what the positions are. Are hey just different brightness levels for the halogen bulbs?

It is possible that someone replaced the switch on your Cub with one for a tractor.... farm tractor. They look identical, except the Cub one was a on-off and the other was a 4 position. Off-dim-bright-field. If this is the case, then you likely have the wire hooked up to the "dim" post. Your LED's wouldn't be getting enough voltage. Yes, it just used a resistor.

On another note, I don't know why your having issues. You know how and LED works, and you know they work hooked up to a battery. Do you not own a DVOM to see if the wires you hooked them up to have power on them? Or if that power source is a full 12V? If not, then go get one and test the damn thing. Guessing what is wrong is just plain silly.