Had better days with the 2372

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by zippy1

I get that Todd, but WHY would there not have been an issue before, with the same length driveshaft? I will measure tomorrow, but I still think/know it was the nut that came off that let it fly apart.

*If* the shaft was too short, it wouldn't have been a problem UNTIL the nut came off and the bolt fell out. Then, it wasn't long enough and engaged into the bearings enough to hold it in.

Does that make more sense?

[Green stripe wide frame]

Would having the vanguard in there have made the length between the flywheel and the pump greater? Just throwing something out there.

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

*If* the shaft was too short, it wouldn't have been a problem UNTIL the nut came off and the bolt fell out. Then, it wasn't long enough and engaged into the bearings enough to hold it in.

Does that make more sense?

It does Jon. I am going to measure as Todd suggested, and see what that says, and go from there.

Originally Posted by Green stripe wide frame

Would having the vanguard in there have made the length between the flywheel and the pump greater? Just throwing something out there.

Suppose it could Cory. "But" S.E.W. never indicated there was a difference, but that doesn't mean something like that couldn't be a possibility...

[V30crewcab]

I know the 1862 and 1641 take different length driveshafts for the cv's, so it will be a different length for yours also, but you said they sent a special length adapter with the motor so that should have worked, unless it was the wrong size.

[Shrewcub]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Also, the parts diagram show a spiral pin for the coupler on the pump. I know it is splined, but does it have a place for the spirol pin? I don't have a SGT close to look at. If I'm down at the barn where they are later, I can look. I have an 1872 down there. Like I said, just trying to help buddy. I just don't think that bolt coming out should have let that shaft come out like it did.

Yes there should be a spirol pin there. Its only 1/8". I remember taking mine out at one point. I wish I had put a new one back in.

I'm wondering if the pin was broken or missing and allowed the coupler to slide back on the shaft enough for the shaft to come out of the bushing.

My other thought was if the bolt that lost its nut started backing out and caught the hydraulic line. Or a combination of the two. Todd, were the remnants of the pin still in the coupler and shaft?

This has me a little nervous as i have the same setup. This has me ready to do the 2000 series or CV shaft conversion. I have the adapter on the shelf.

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by Shrewcub

Todd, were the remnants of the pin still in the coupler and shaft?

Sorry it took me this long to get back Travis. The easiest answer is NO. There is no hole in the input shaft to pin anything to. Never was on this tractor...
Now before anyone starts typing something like, there has to be, they all do. Well you would think, but I've had two other people look as well. NO HOLE!!!
So, I'm in limbo right now. On a good note, got the linkage back on, and functioning. But the other dilemma is this. Does anyone have the measurements for these two hydraulic lines? Mine are a "little" bent, and in all the wrong places.
727-3019 Tube Assy, Return
727-3033 Tube Assy, Pump Pressure
# 14 and 19

[farmall fred]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Sorry it took me this long to get back Travis. The easiest answer is NO. There is no hole in the input shaft to pin anything to. Never was on this tractor...
Now before anyone starts typing something like, there has to be, they all do. Well you would think, but I've had two other people look as well. NO HOLE!!!
So, I'm in limbo right now. On a good note, got the linkage back on, and functioning. But the other dilemma is this. Does anyone have the measurements for these two hydraulic lines? Mine are a "little" bent, and in all the wrong places.
727-3019 Tube Assy, Return
727-3033 Tube Assy, Pump Pressure
# 14 and 19

Todd, did you check to see if the input shaft was threaded for a retaining bolt for a CV joint type driveshaft? It might have been changed. As for the lines you might be better off trying to find a set of used ones from a sponsor. They have some pretty tight bends where they attach to the hydro to clear the cooling fan. Have you decided on what driveshaft you are going to use? I used one from a 2284 cyclops in my 2882 build and it bolted right in. I did have to drill and tap the input shaft for a 1/4-28 SAE bolt but it drilled easy. I have CV drive shafts in all three of my cubs with command engines and the seem to be much smoother with less vibration than the ones with rag joints. Check with the sponsors for a shaft. He had some in stock when I bought mine. Just make sure that you tell him that you need the complete shaft assembly with the adaptors and fan since you are doing a conversion.
Good luck with getting the tractor running again.
Tom

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by farmall fred

Todd, did you check to see if the input shaft was threaded for a retaining bolt for a CV joint type driveshaft? It might have been changed. As for the lines you might be better off trying to find a set of used ones from a sponsor. They have some pretty tight bends where they attach to the hydro to clear the cooling fan. Have you decided on what driveshaft you are going to use? I used one from a 2284 cyclops in my 2882 build and it bolted right in. I did have to drill and tap the input shaft for a 1/4-28 SAE bolt but it drilled easy. I have CV drive shafts in all three of my cubs with command engines and the seem to be much smoother with less vibration than the ones with rag joints. Check with Patton for a shaft. He had some in stock when I bought mine. Just make sure that you tell him that you need the complete shaft assembly with the adaptors and fan since you are doing a conversion.
Good luck with getting the tractor running again.
Tom

Read my post #36. If you look at the pump shaft you'll notice that it is broken so Todd will need to deal with that, I suggested that he replace the pump with one from a Cyclops Super. That get's him a pump that is already tapped for the CV pump adapter. My guess is that SEW made the engine adapter long enough to accommodate the 1872 drive shaft so a shaft from an 1882 or 2082 should fit. The 1882 had a Mag 18 and the 2082 had a Mag 20, the 1872 had a Mag 18

[zippy1]

Talked with the guy today. He's got to check to see if he has the lines. I've got the short one, it'll make a good temp let for a new one if need be.
Here's a close up picture of the shaft. It's "chipped" on the end. I asked a member who has a pump out of a 2072, and he measured the input shaft for me, and it's the same length, so there is nothing missing. I mean in overall length...You can see the end has the machining swirls in it.
The coupling assy. is fine. As you can see in the second picture, with it where it's supposed to be, I marked the shaft in white where the hole should of been. (third picture)
Wonder why the shaft was never drilled. And the end is not tapped either.
I already have new rag joints, fan and drive flange assy. Not going with the newer style driveshaft assy. Keeping it the way it was, worked that way for many years, and don't feel a need to "upgrade"...
I do appreciate the input on the "upgrade" drive assy. guys, but I just don't feel the desire to go through it.

[jaynjeep]

Wow Todd!! You have more of a mess than I thought you did! I'm puzzled.. no hole for a roll pin and no threads for a bolt in the end of the shaft?