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#11
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have you checked the point gap / timing , cleaned the points etc.?
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#12
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Bought new points today, along with condenser and coil - did not get everything put back on since I'm also cleaning the carb. But...since you brought it up (and I was going to ask anyway)...I'm concerned about having the points gap at exactly the right place in the timing. When I turn the engine by hand, I can see where at some point the bar comes out as far is it's going to - and then I understand about gapping it to .020 and locking it in place. I did that. But, what confuses me is that continued turning of the engine seem to produce no change in the position of the bar until you really turn it a good amount. So...how do I know if I have the points gap open at its widest at the correct place in engine rotation? Should it be just as soon as the bar pushes out its farthest? I don't have a timing light and so need to set this as best I can. Also, I've read about using the sight-hole...have no idea where this is (?)
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#13
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#14
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I did read all that - great reference - but as I said in another thread, I can't find the marks - too much rust and dirt on the flywheel I guess.
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#15
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Get a small wire brush that goes on the end of a drill. Stick it though the hole, turn the morning by hand and polish the flywheel. You can start by removing the exhaust plug and watching for the exhaust valve to open. , then roll the motor back just a bit. That will get you close to the mark. One you find and clean it, you will have to turn the engine one revolution.
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#16
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I'm going to throw this out there.
Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime. Do you have basic hand tools to rebuild an engine? Do you have a camera to take a ton of pics? Download the free Kohler manual and read all that you can. Tear the engine down taking lots of pics for a reference and for posting questions here. Find a good machine shop in your area that can bore it and turn the crank. When they tell you what size pistons and rods to get, order from this guy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-K301-...OE7GHmbYMBso1Q You'll have $100 in parts and probably $100 to $200 at the machine shop. After work in the evenings, crack you a cold beer or pour you a hot cup of coffee and start the reassembly. These engines are simple and fun to work on. If you're not sure, take some pics and ask questions on here. You are working on a 35 year old lawn mower and not the space shuttle. If you "F" up you're out $300 and starting from scratch. You are in the land of Cub Cadet's and shouldn't have an issue if you need another motor if this one gernades.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
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#17
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Oak...thanks. I really appreciate that but I don't think I'm quite up to it. For one thing, the next 2 months are extremely busy for me so I don't really have the time to devote to it, which would undoubtedly take me 10-20 times longer than someone who has the experience working on these. Believe me, I do take lots of pics and notes when I do virtually anything on the Cub, but I think I'll get a rebuilt short block and leave the work to my brother's service station. IF it was in the middle of winter and I had hardly anything else to do, I'd perhaps be more willing to pursue what you suggested. I've already spent several nearly full days over the past week or so and am right where I started, and yet have spent the money for a new plug, points, condenser, and coil. None of those are at the heart of the problem. I've always taken great satisfaction out of being able to successfully complete jobs on the Cub over the years, but this one is just a bit too much I'm afraid. Still..you have tempted me
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#18
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three, no problem, I understand. What I'm saying is, don't be intimidated by rebuilding one of these. If your going to spend $800 on a short block and then pay someone else $200 + to put it together you can probably by another machine in your neck of the woods.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
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#19
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Quote:
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1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces 1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering 1- 1200 in pieces 1- 1864 in pieces QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket |
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#20
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Quote:
![]() BUT, sometime you'll need to face your fears.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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