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  #31  
Old 08-24-2017, 12:25 AM
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You can get cables at your dealer, hardware store or auto parts joint.
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  #32  
Old 08-25-2017, 12:58 PM
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Dropped off the piston with machine shop so he can make sure everything fits properly. Ended up having to go to .020 over and I stuck with Kohler parts ( piston and rod) I couldn't find any aftermarket parts for the small bore K161 anyway. Maybe I didn't try hard enough. The only Kohler parts I could find was .020. Crank was still in spec so standard rod.

Rolled it out of the barn to power wash off the years of grime grease and oil.

I did pick up a universal cable for the throttle cable at local auto parts store, just need to cut to proper length once I drop the engine back in.

Current plan is to drop the engine back in and get it running then move on to the clutch which if you don't recall came all apart in a box. I also noticed today when I took it out to get washed that the brake does nothing so will need to look into that. I don't plan on doing total restore this fall, just take care of the mechanical issues with the paint next year. Caveat is that the parts that I work on like the engine and clutch will get painted while they are all apart.
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  #33  
Old 08-25-2017, 11:22 PM
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Looking good.. thanks for the updates!

Just for info.. the last two small bore K161's I have done... had the same issue with parts availability... we just bored the cylinder out to the specs for the later K161/K181 pistons that are readily available.. Had no issues with either engine.. they both ran slick and one of them has worked very hard since.. I was a bit worried about taking that much metal out of the jug but my machinist assured me it wouldn't be a problem.. he was correct.. I was also worried that the new piston would be heavier and throw off the balance, but ive had no issues there either. I really enjoy those little 7hp engines... they don't have a ton of power but they are the smoothest running of the K series singles.. They are my go to tractors for light yard chores or dragging a wagon around.. They sit and idle very quietly while I am off and on the tractor!
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  #34  
Old 08-26-2017, 07:46 AM
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Thanks Jay, yeah I had read about going up to the K181 std bore as an option. I mentioned it to my machinist and he said he would prefer not to if I could find something. I also did a small bore k161 on my 63 JD 110 a couple of years ago and did the .020 over which is all that seems to be available for the small bore now.
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  #35  
Old 08-26-2017, 10:37 PM
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Good work, and great idea on getting the mechanicals working properly, before thinking about a "restoration". Saves on the new paint...
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Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
(O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs
Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk
They can't all be turn key!
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  #36  
Old 09-02-2017, 07:55 AM
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Picked up the engine late yesterday. Hopefully get some time over the next few days to get it back together for a test. Cleaned up nice.
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2017, 03:39 PM
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Only one picture today. Most if not all of us have seen the inside of a Kohler. Went to install the new governor shaft and it would not slide all the way into the needle bearing without force and once in it would not turn. Probably why the original broke. The bearing was all gummed up. I spent a bit of time cleaning it out with PB blaster and pieces of rags on a plastic probe. When done everything fits and turns freely. Both main bearings were all gummed up and sticky also. Clearly this engine ran very low on oil and these things got baked. The mains were replaced.

After the governor parts, I installed the tappets, cam, crank, and bearing plate getting everything timed and end gaps checked within spec.

Then I started to think When I took the engine apart I found the piece from the governor arm and a tiny piece of aluminum, but I never found the huge piece missing from the piston. I was discussing this with a friend and I have a feeling that the engine failed, someone pulled the oil pan and found that big piece and took it out not seeing the other pieces which would be easy to miss with some dirty oil in the bottom of the pan. No way of knowing if they tried to run it like that or just buttoned it up and stuck the tractor in a corner. The piston and valves did move fine, so if someone was inexperienced they could have easily missed the fact the governor arm moved too far. Of course it would have raced like crazy like that.
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  #38  
Old 09-04-2017, 05:18 PM
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Good to see your progress Bill, keep the pictures coming!
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  #39  
Old 09-09-2017, 04:32 PM
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Had a little time this afternoon to make some progress. I did a dry run ( no gas but yes I have oil ) and it does turn over so at least I have the SG wired partially correct. As a reminder when I got it wiring was not complete, no SG, no throttle cable and of course not running. For now I have not connected up the choke cable because it hangs off the Oil bath filter which I have not mounted yet. It is all cleaned up and painted, but I figured if I have to tinker with this I don't want to have to take it on and off. The throttle cable is way too long but good enough for testing.

Hopefully tomorrow I will set up the fuel tank remotely so I can run it until warm so I can re-torque the head. A lot of variables on this one since it was not running. Rebuilt engine, used S/G, rebuilt carb, no idea if coil is any good.

What is the correct color of the S/G. In my research I am seeing both black and yellow. I made my 100 yellow, but kind of liking the black????
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  #40  
Old 09-09-2017, 07:28 PM
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Oh, hey now. Yer looking pretty good there.
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