Cub Cadet 149 Wont Start

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

So, if after doing the test you suggest.... all the parts between the key switch and the starter, along with every connection are still suspect, what good, exactly, is this test? I'll wait for an answer before I supply a real problem solving test procedure.

It eliminates the battery and starter/generator (and starter/generator ground) as being the problem, and, more than likely, the battery ground. That’s half the components.

It’s got a new solenoid. What’s left is cables/connections and, as you said, the key. So now you know it’s more than likely one of those two things.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

It eliminates the battery and starter/generator (and starter/generator ground) as being the problem, and, more than likely, the battery ground. That’s half the components.

It’s got a new solenoid. What’s left is cables/connections and, as you said, the key. So now you know it’s more than likely one of those two things.

If it hadn't cranked, it would have eliminated NOTHING. Only would have told you that the battery or the S/G could also be bad. Using a test light and volt meter is how you find and fix electrical problems. Using jumper cables and hooking them up here and there are for emergency situations where you need something to run right now so you can fix it later.

[jsoluna]

These circuits are about as simple as starting circuits can get.

Check battery for static voltage. 12.5v +-.5v

Load test battery.

Clean and check connections:

Battery 12v+
Battery 12v-
Solenoid 12v+
Solenoid Switched 12v+ Signal
Solenoid 12v+ Load
Starter 12v+
Engine 12v-

If you check voltage and clean all these connections you should have an almost definitive solution to your problem.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If it hadn't cranked, it would have eliminated NOTHING. Only would have told you that the battery or the S/G could also be bad. Using a test light and volt meter is how you find and fix electrical problems. Using jumper cables and hooking them up here and there are for emergency situations where you need something to run right now so you can fix it later.

It might not have absolutely eliminated anything, but it would have pointed to the problem not being the switch, the solenoid, or the cabling (aside from the battery ground, and possibly the s/g wiring ground). Or if it was, it is a second fault.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

It might not have absolutely eliminated anything, but it would have pointed to the problem not being the switch, the solenoid, or the cabling (aside from the battery ground, and possibly the s/g wiring ground). Or if it was, it is a second fault.

No, it wouldn't have. You bypassed the switch, solenoid and most all of the cables. It doesn't prove anything..... other than maybe the battery and S/G work, if they do in fact work when you hook up a jumper cable. That's it. That is NOT a test to recommend to find and fix the problem.

It's like when someone says something won't start and you suggest shorting out the solenoid with a screwdriver. Then they say, well, it started, so what's wrong? Yeah... still no idea. You only know that the battery and starter do work when EVERYTHING else is bypassed. He was no farther to knowing what was wrong than before he used the jumper cable. Please, only recommend that test if you want only to know if the starter does in fact work, or that the battery isn't dead. But most people can pretty easily figure out if a batter is dead without using jumper cables to the starter. Jumper cables to another good battery will tell you if the battery you have is dead and you have no way to test it. A much better test than running to the starter from the battery in question.

[twoton]

Hey countywacker, so, utilizing Gompers test you have(most likely) determined that your starter is working, your battery is good, and you have decent ground paths. And, following the advice from cubs-n-bxrs and R Bedell, your connections are all clean and secure. And through use of your multimeter and following the advice from jsoluna and help from the youtube video, you have determined that you have 12 volts everywhere that you are suppose to. So,.. what’s next? Remember that just because you can get 12 volts through a battery cable doesn’t mean that it will carry any more than a few milliamps let alone 15 amps or whatever that starter needs to crank over. Battery cables are notorious for developing internal corrosion, thus reducing current flow (increase resistance).

So, using your multi meter, what do you have for resistance (ohms) in the, B+ terminal to starter relay, cable?

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by twoton

Hey countywacker, so, utilizing Gompers test you have(most likely) determined that your starter is working, your battery is good, and you have decent ground paths. And, following the advice from cubs-n-bxrs and R Bedell, your connections are all clean and secure. And through use of your multimeter and following the advice from jsoluna and help from the youtube video, you have determined that you have 12 volts everywhere that you are suppose to. So,.. what’s next? Remember that just because you can get 12 volts through a battery cable doesn’t mean that it will carry any more than a few milliamps let alone 15 amps or whatever that starter needs to crank over. Battery cables are notorious for developing internal corrosion, thus reducing current flow (increase resistance).

So, using your multi meter, what do you have for resistance (ohms) in the, B+ terminal to starter relay, cable?

Sounds like you are getting some other juices flowing twoton!.

Otherwise ALL have given good advice.

[R Bedell]

just because you can get 12 volts through a battery cable doesn’t mean that it will carry any more than a few Milli-amps let alone 15 amps or whatever that starter needs to crank over.

Amen and right on. Using a Multi-meter to check voltages ONLY tells you part of the equation.

[Gompers]

If you’ve got a wire or remote starter switch to jump 12v from the battery to the solenoid you could see if that will spin it over.

If it turns over, that would rule out the solenoid, the solenoid ground, the solenoid load cables and, well pretty much everything aside from the wiring between the switch and the battery and the switch and the solenoid.

If that doesn’t spin over, its more likely the solenoid load cables, since you just replaced the solenoid and it’s unlikely to be the solenoid ground.

Edit:
Forgot to ask, does this tractor still have the safety switches installed/connected? That could be another place to look.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

...... ALL have given good advice.

Yes they have.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

....Using a test light and volt meter is how you find and fix electrical problems.....

Well said.