Buying a 1450, what to look for

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Slycox

... breaking it down barney style...

you funny. Glad you weren't offended.
Wasn't sure what your skill level was.

Thought I would mention that I don't think either of the fuses affect the start circuit....

Good info there from sawdustdad.

You ever rebuild a carb like this...

[Slycox]

Originally Posted by twoton

you funny. Glad you weren't offended.
Wasn't sure what your skill level was.

Thought I would mention that I don't think either of the fuses affect the start circuit....

Good info there from sawdustdad.

You ever rebuild a carb like this...

No I appreciate the help even with things I know how to do it's always good to get a refresher.

As far as the fuses the one appeared to be connected to the PTO switch, I'm wondering if it was causing it stay open?

And I've torn down and cleaned a few carbs, none this exact style but it wasn't to hard or to dirty. Let it sit in the carb dip a couple hours. I'll get a good thorough soak when I get the rebuild kit.

Gonna work on getting spark now.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Slycox

So no spark. Cleaned the points. Getting power to positive side of coil ~12.4v. Ohm reading from positive to post ~8 no reading from negative to positive.

Negative to positive on the coil right? You should have, I think, something like 4.5 ohms across those two, and several thousand ohm from plus to tower.

If you have no continuity there, you’ve probably got a bad coil.

[Slycox]

Originally Posted by Gompers

Negative to positive on the coil right? You should have, I think, something like 4.5 ohms across those two, and several thousand ohm from plus to tower.

If you have no continuity there, you’ve probably got a bad coil.

Yes, I forgot to mention the 8 reading was with it at the 20k setting. I went through all settings on the meter and made sure I checked every way I could to remove operator error.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Slycox

Yes, I forgot to mention the 8 reading was with it at the 20k setting. I went through all settings on the meter and made sure I checked every way I could to remove operator error.

No continuity between the negative and positive posts on the coil means that the primary windings in the coil do not have continuity. Without that, the coil has no way to “charge”. No “charge” means no “spark” when the points open.

[Slycox]

Thanks, figured as much.

This may be a stupid question but I suck at 12v systems. Do these coils need an internal resistor? The one on there says it needs an external resistor.

[twoton]

3 - 4 ohm, internal resistor such as the Bosch Blue coil;

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00012-I...ds=bosch+00012

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Slycox

Thanks, figured as much.

This may be a stupid question but I suck at 12v systems. Do these coils need an internal resistor? The one on there says it needs an external resistor.

It gets complicated, but what you probably have there is a 6 volt coil. It should have had a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the + terminal. That's more than likely why it pooped it's pants. Pushing too much voltage through it for a length of time will do that to stuff.

If you replace it with a true 12v coil, or a 12v coil with an internal resistor (which is probably just a 6v coil) you do not need a resistor. Otherwise, if it says you should have one, you should have one.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by twoton

3 - 4 ohm, internal resistor such as the Bosch Blue coil;

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00012-I...ds=bosch+00012

But you don't have to get the Bosch coil. Any internally resisted coil with a 3-4 OHM rating will work. Most all part stores carry those in stock.

Originally Posted by Gompers

It gets complicated, but what you probably have there is a 6 volt coil. It should have had a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the + terminal. That's more than likely why it pooped it's pants. Pushing too much voltage through it for a length of time will do that to stuff.

If you replace it with a true 12v coil, or a 12v coil with an internal resistor (which is probably just a 6v coil) you do not need a resistor. Otherwise, if it says you should have one, you should have one.

No..... there is a difference between a 6V coil and a 12V coil. Just because it says "externally resisted" doesn't make it a 6V coil. But I do agree, it is the incorrect one, and that is not just "maybe" why it failed... it IS why it failed. Can't feed that coil a full 12V. Incorrect part for this application.


See above post for getting the correct coil. DO NOT just buy any old internally resisted 12V coil. There are differences, and they will burn up the points if they are not the correct OHM rating.

[Slycox]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

But you don't have to get the Bosch coil. Any internally resisted coil with a 3-4 OHM rating will work. Most all part stores carry those in stock.




No..... there is a difference between a 6V coil and a 12V coil. Just because it says "externally resisted" doesn't make it a 6V coil. But I do agree, it is the incorrect one, and that is not just "maybe" why it failed... it IS why it failed. Can't feed that coil a full 12V. Incorrect part for this application.


See above post for getting the correct coil. DO NOT just buy any old internally resisted 12V coil. There are differences, and they will burn up the points if they are not the correct OHM rating.

Thanks for the information, I did buy just any coil and I checked before installing it to see what it was reading. Was right at 3.6.

After getting the new coil, she lives! Seems to me that the motor wants to run a bit fast so I will have to tune the carb, the mysterious no start popped up again I believe its tied to the foot pedal after pushing a few times it went.

Did drive it and it seemed ok in the gears, will probably need motor mounts that were mentioned somewhere it does shake at low rpms, but overall I'm happy. I can start fixing the issues now that it runs.

Thanks much for your help