1811 hydro coupler roll pin removal ..?

[J-Mech]

I'm not sure why you think the bearings is worn out and the shaft is round. You claim to have 1/128" max deflection in the shaft. That is .0078125" of an inch. That's a pretty impressive and exact number you found.... Most dial indicators only read .001" of an inch, so not sure how you came up with 1/128". That's really close to .008" and a pretty wide gap. Seems like a lot to me and not have worn the shaft any. Just to satisfy my curiosity, how exactly did you measure the bearing clearance, and prove the shaft is round? How about a pic of your project..... that would make me feel a bit better also. It is not likely that the bearing wore that much without good reason. That's a lot.

[Oak]

I'm thinking that since you already ordered the bearing and have the seal, put it back together with the new parts and see how long it will last.

But....

We need some pics of what you have to help you better.

I have never seen a machine that didn't need a new shaft and both ball bushings replaced. If you have a drill press you can make a new shaft pretty easy. Buy 2 ball bushings and while your that far, get 4 rag joints too.

[tgb24]

John...all very rough measurements with calipers I'm afraid , I have nothing else and it was done to give a ball park picture of the deflection to the forum ..I checked the deflection of the shaft at the lip seal point by placing the end on the shaft fully deflected one way on the end of a fixed caliper end, zeroed it then pulled the shaft back. I did this numerous times and got anywhere from 0.007 to 0.01"..this is on the shaft at the seal point ..the deflection at the bearing will obviously be less. I measured the roundness ..well, by eye to start and feel..you didn't specify any tolerance .I also measured the shaft diameter at various points with calipers and got within 0.001" ->0.002"from about 9 readings ...I'm no expert and have no clue if those readings are bad or useless...but it's the only tool I have to hand

That's it, not sure you need pictures do you ??..it's a shaft sticking out the pump 2.5 inches and when I yank on it ..it moves ..indicative of the front bearing bushing closest to it being buggered .the back of the shaft that sticks out does not leak and it appears pretty solid in it's bushing when pulled ..so one can assume that rear bearing is good and the front closest to the pump is bad

Anyhow, Will put it back together and see if the new pump bearing and seal can keep the oil out of the drifting shaft....hope so!!

Thanks again for the help and advice , appreciate it

Tom

[J-Mech]

Tom, the tool you used along with the method are incredibly inaccurate. If you feel you have it whipped and don't want our opinion, that is your choice. We're here to help, and that is after all what you came looking for. But if you come back with issues, don't be surprised if you hear "told you so". How long does it take to snap a picture and upload it.....?

[tgb24]

I will snap a few pictures tonight.

I understand the method was inaccurate but it was repeatable and used only to give a ball park order of magnitude of how much the shaft was moving at the seal point. I was just asking if this was likely to repeat the leaking problem once I put everything back together.

Seems like the input shaft and bushings will need to be replaced at some point if I want complete resolution..kind of bummed because that seems like quite a bit of work and lots could go wrong on such an old machine .

I appreciate your assistance and knowledge as I have stated after every post.

Tom

[J-Mech]

Yeah I still don't get how you came up with your 1/128" number. If there is that much play, I find it hard to believe the shaft is good.

What input shaft and bushings are you talking about? On the pump? If so forget it. The hydro isn't worth the cost, just buy another one if it needs a shaft. There are no bushings in it that I recall. All bearings. I don't think you know much about these machines if you think it's too old to fix and you are worried about other issues. I've got an 1811 with 2100 hours on it and it's doing fine.

[tgb24]

It's the pump shaft I'm talking about and your right it sits in bearings not bushings, sorryfor the confusion on that !I....I did take a crappy picture last night , forgot...see attached so no confusion .

So what you suggest is I find a new none leaking hydro pump, split the tractor and stick it on the differential.

I've only had the tractor a year so I'm still learning about them and I'm just a little nervous about splitting her etc and installing a new pump. Will give it a go though if I can find a decent pump ...anyone got a good one ..lol

Thanks again and sorry for my poor communication about the issue .

Tom

[J-Mech]

*Sigh*. No, I'm saying if you really had that much play, the shaft should be worn. If it isn't, put a new bearing and seal in and see how it is. I only suggest replacing it if the shaft is worn. I really thought I was being clear.

[tgb24]

Yeap...that was actually my plan all along ..replace the needle bearing and seal and see how she works. Then based on your recommendations If it still leaks then my only other options seem to be be a new hydro pump or take out the current and replace the shaft and bearings (not worth it) .

Would you expect a new needle bearing in the charge pump to reduce the existing movement of the input shaft I'm seeing without the charge pump attached ?

Tom

[J-Mech]

Boy you and I just aren't communicating very well...
So, this deflection you are reporting....that's with the charge pump off?? If so, that is no help at all. I thought the measurement you gave was with the pump on.

Would you expect a new needle bearing in the charge pump to reduce the existing movement of the input shaft I'm seeing without the charge pump attached ?

I don't see how a new bearing in the charge pump will change shaft movement unless it is bolted on.