1811 hydro coupler roll pin removal ..?

[tgb24]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Boy you and I just aren't communicating very well...
So, this deflection you are reporting....that's with the charge pump off?? If so, that is no help at all. I thought the measurement you gave was with the pump on.



I don't see how a new bearing in the charge pump will change shaft movement unless it is bolted on.

ha ha communication is poor I agree , and its not easy in a forum environment - I stated numerous times the pump was off if you read through my posts though

"So ..I finally got to take the charge pump off and see what was going on. There is some play to the input shaft when I wiggle it so it looks like the ball bushing has worn out."

im talking about the bearing sitting behind the case here I can see

"No , I think we are on the same page, I have the charge pump off and the input shaft is sticking out."

btw There was similar play in the shaft with the pump on and with the pump off.

so your saying my test is useless with the pump off and that the shaft is expected to move in its bearings with the pump off then?? , I would expect that shaft to sit like a rock in the bearings behind the case...but o.k.

I think we are getting something confused between us here

Tom

[R Bedell]

There are three (3) bearings that have impact on the Input Shaft

* 9001305-0001 Bearing, Ball - Rear
* 9001355-0001 Bearing, Ball - Mid
* 9001455-0002 Bearing, Needle - Front (Charge Pump)

Both Ball Bearings would require dismantling the entire Hydro Unit for replacement

The Needle Bearing can be easily changed out once the Charge Pump is removed.

IMHO......The "play" in the Input shaft can only be determined when all three bearings are in place. Feeling for movement with only the two Ball Bearings would be inaccurate.

Lastly, the Sunstrand Hydo is almost a "bullet proof" unit. I have NEVER heard of anyone replacing the inner Ball Bearings. I have only heard once, the replacement of the Needle Bearing in the Charge Pump.

None of us are there, seeing, observing, and feeling this input shaft. So, if you think the bearing(s) are bad, worn, and/or need replacing, by all means, do as you see fit.

[J-Mech]

Well, Roland and I actually agree on this one. He said what I was going to.... but I will add that the ball bearings will have more play than the needle bearing will.

To the OP:
For the record, you aren't being very clear. That is why I am misunderstanding. Makes no sense to me why you would measure shaft deflection after remove the charge pump (which includes the support bearing) so I naturally assumed (because I'm a mechanic) that you measured it before removing the pump.

Just put a new bearing and seal in and I'm sure you will be fine. More than likely the old bearing was fine, but it's not like it was an expensive part.

[SpectroDave]

TGB-
Let me join the fray here and echo the "Sigh". I have never seen fractional measurements taken to 128ths in any shop I have worked in!!
Added to this the faulty nomenclature (a "ball bushing" is actually a linear motion device introduced by Thomson Industries) and things get even muddier.

And why the reluctance to post a picture? What's the big secret? Please appreciate that people are here to help! (Though you did mention the pump removal 4 times...I think J-Mech must be from Obtuse, Illinois rather than Oblong, Illinois!)

Speaking of appreciation - a 30 year old Cadet is just getting started! I'll bet you are a bit of a nightmare to work with!

Hope this helps-
Dave

[tgb24]

O.k , I Installed the new seal and needle bearing and that stopped the shaft from moving, so it seems the needle bearing and seal were the culprits. Installed a new filter with new fluid and no more leaks and drips ...see how long it lasts !

Thanks a lot for all the advice

Tom