Add some Hytran after cork gasket job?

[three4rd]

Didn't have anything apart other than removing the suction tube and then pulling the pump to replace the cork gasket.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by athomas

Overflowed out of the port I was funneling into ! The port was full to the top and till I pulled the funnel and got a finger over the end it spewed all over ! I agree if you have the hydro unit itself apart definitely lube up the inside with some hytran before bolting the case shut to avoid a dry start up !

OK....so it simply overflowed from the top. I was under the impression that it ran out the bottom some place.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by ol'George

I believe the concept is when the hydro is dissembled for internal work,
and thus everything is dry inside, filling some oil into the relief valves insures
that there is some lube inside so parts inside don't start off dry.
If I am changing just the cork gasket, I keep it upright so little oil is lost.
in other words,setting the differential on the back plate where the drawbar attaches.

George...I had it upright the entire time but still, was told to drain the trans (needed to be done anyway). However, since I really didn't have the hydro apart I would assume there is still a good amount of lubrication on the internals.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by three4rd

How necessary is it to remove check valves and add some hytran after cork gasket job?

Replaced the gasket and so the trans is basically empty at this point. It has been suggested to me to remove both check valves and pour some fluid down in both ports, then reinstall valves and rotate the driveshaft (or in my case the coupling arm since there is no engine in the tractor right now) in the direction of normal rotation (I think this is counter-clockwise but not certain till I refer to my notes) to make sure the pump is primed. Never had the check valves out before so wanted to make sure I need to do this (?)

Thanks...

Good morning guys! I too have replaced about 4-5 of these gaskets. I always thought it a good time to remove the rear cover and clean out any sludge or dirt, and thus reassemble and refill through the hole in the rear cover.

Originally Posted by athomas

Overflowed out of the port I was funneling into ! The port was full to the top and till I pulled the funnel and got a finger over the end it spewed all over ! I agree if you have the hydro unit itself apart definitely lube up the inside with some hytran before bolting the case shut to avoid a dry start up !

Hi Al! Now, on my model 1211I had tried to fill the trans through the relief valve and what a episode that was lol! Same thing happened to me.... oil everywhere! What's not to like about my model is that there is no fill hole in the rear cover, ( something that's worked for decades) so it was a long, painful process to refill through that tiny little "dip-stick" tube they got going on. I was not about to break the new seal I made for the rear cover.

[three4rd]

I just got this advice as well from someone.... "Since you've had the pump out to replace the cork gasket, you will need to do the neutral adjustment and have one wheel jacked up off the ground. Once you start the engine, the wheel should start turning within 15-30 seconds. This will indicate the charge pump sucked Hytran into the filter, self-primed the hydro pump and purged the air out of the system. If the charge pump fails to prime itself after a minute or two, there's a hex plug (not the dump check valves) you remove near the charge pump and rig up a nipple and about a 1-2 ft hose length that you fill with Hytran and then start the engine to help self prime the charge pump."

Not sure which plug is being referred to here. Hopefully it'll be fine without having to do anything (at least regarding the hytran). As to the neutral adjustment, I'll have to follow the procedure in the manual. I was careful to put the cam bracket back on at the same position it was before removing it.

[athomas]

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Good morning guys! I too have replaced about 4-5 of these gaskets. I always thought it a good time to remove the rear cover and clean out any sludge or dirt, and thus reassemble and refill through the hole in the rear cover.

Hi Al! Now, on my model 1211I had tried to fill the trans through the relief valve and what a episode that was lol! Same thing happened to me.... oil everywhere! What's not to like about my model is that there is no fill hole in the rear cover, ( something that's worked for decades) so it was a long, painful process to refill through that tiny little "dip-stick" tube they got going on. I was not about to break the new seal I made for the rear cover.

Hi John ! yea when something works it seems like someone always comes along trying to reinvent the wheel ! I guess a separate sight glass for level and an angled fill plug would have been ideal but hey ya can't have everything !

[athomas]

Originally Posted by three4rd

I just got this advice as well from someone.... "Since you've had the pump out to replace the cork gasket, you will need to do the neutral adjustment and have one wheel jacked up off the ground. Once you start the engine, the wheel should start turning within 15-30 seconds. This will indicate the charge pump sucked Hytran into the filter, self-primed the hydro pump and purged the air out of the system. If the charge pump fails to prime itself after a minute or two, there's a hex plug (not the dump check valves) you remove near the charge pump and rig up a nipple and about a 1-2 ft hose length that you fill with Hytran and then start the engine to help self prime the charge pump."

Not sure which plug is being referred to here. Hopefully it'll be fine without having to do anything (at least regarding the hytran). As to the neutral adjustment, I'll have to follow the procedure in the manual. I was careful to put the cam bracket back on at the same position it was before removing it.

Possible you may have to readjust for neutral, I've changed a couple cork gaskets but never had an issue with the pump not picking up fluid, I think I remember seeing an allen head plug on the top of the last one I did and assumed it was there for priming if needed but can't swear to it !