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  #1  
Old 06-29-2020, 10:06 PM
mfeldmann mfeldmann is offline
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Default Rear PTO rattle

i have a 1772. I removed a rear pto from a 1914 and installed it on my diesel . Now the rear pto rattles like crazy. It didn't make any noise on the 1914. I removed the pto found nothing wrong . The spiral pins are safety wired. They have a little play in them. Nothing major. The pto works ok but sounds terrible with the pto turned on or off. Anyone have the same problem are is there a fix?. I know the diesel will have more driveline vibration compared to gas. I can't imagine it's normal and was sold new like that.
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Old 06-30-2020, 08:19 AM
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I had a similar issue on one of my diesels. I bet your holes and or pins are (as we say in the south) wallered out. I often thought about sending one of mine off to Jeff in PA so he could duplicate some parts for us.

I think the rear pto is designed poorly on Cub Cadets. Here are the pieces needed to make the short distance from the rear output shaft to the pto.
DSCN1131.jpg
I often wondered if the holes on that short shaft should be 90* offset but IDK. I also wondered if the pieces could be tightly fit and welded leaving only one roll pin for safety.

Here is the splined coupler that would need to be bored out to 7/8" on one side.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...ing-1-2985.axd
All the other parts are just standard stuff.
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Old 06-30-2020, 09:31 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
I had a similar issue on one of my diesels. I bet your holes and or pins are (as we say in the south) wallered out. I often thought about sending one of mine off to Jeff in PA so he could duplicate some parts for us.

I think the rear pto is designed poorly on Cub Cadets. Here are the pieces needed to make the short distance from the rear output shaft to the pto.
Attachment 105132
I often wondered if the holes on that short shaft should be 90* offset but IDK. I also wondered if the pieces could be tightly fit and welded leaving only one roll pin for safety.

Here is the splined coupler that would need to be bored out to 7/8" on one side.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...ing-1-2985.axd
All the other parts are just standard stuff.

I did one of those PTO for somebody ( don't remember offhand )

I'd "bet a dollar" the reason for having the holes in line is that both can be drilled at the same time without an additional set up ( the 90* turn )

Jeff
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:22 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa View Post
I did one of those PTO for somebody ( don't remember offhand )

I'd "bet a dollar" the reason for having the holes in line is that both can be drilled at the same time without an additional set up ( the 90* turn )

Jeff
Jeff,
now you are thinking like a production engineer, pleasing the bean counters.
( also someone who had cut a chip or two in the past.)
Whaddayabet that being a low production run, it was possibly jobbed out to a small job shop.
There were many back in the day.
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Old 07-01-2020, 11:19 AM
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Looking at the design, I would weld the couplers to the shaft so that you only have 1 spirol pin to deal with.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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