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#11
04-01-2021, 10:29 AM
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If it is a normal fitting, both ends of the fitting will fit in the pump!
I have used a fitting meant to be a tube union fitting, inotherwords to connect two flared tubes together. I'll try to get some pix up soon. The only thing I can think of is maybe his early fitting is a tapered pipe thread where it screws into the pump. but like you, I think a parker man should of picked up on that. 
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#12
04-01-2021, 11:07 AM
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Old part no. was IH-7273009. Search for that Cub part comes up with IH-9410204.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INTERNA...QAAOSwcwhVKotJ
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#13
04-01-2021, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
It is a standard hyd/parker fitting that needs an "O" ring to seal the fitting at the pump. the price is not that bad either with no shipping added!
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#14
04-01-2021, 11:47 AM
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I'm am curious to why the original poster needs a new fitting? I'm sure he'll have to replace the ferrule or o-ring which should be easy enough. But does he not have the fitting from the original suction tube?
__________________
Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower
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#16
04-01-2021, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Maybe it is an early design we are not familiar with?? I'm sure he will post back. The pump should have the ORB ( O ring barb) to Jic flair. But a lot of things in this world I don't know or have not seen.
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#18
04-03-2021, 02:24 PM
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Thanks for all the input/help on figuring out my connector issue. Thanks to Ironman's part numbers I was able to find one at an old IH dealership.
The reason I needed that part is because I am converting from the original style 147 tubing to the later 149 style. It has less connectors and in my thinking would be less likely to leak. However it is pretty clear to me now that my very bad hydro leak is not from the suction tube or the hydro/rearend gasket but is higher up near the top. Thinking that it was the hydro/rearend leaking, I bought a supposedly new gasket but it did not have the cloth backing like the one in Gerry (Kendall) Ide's write up. So I bought another one from a different source and it doesn't have the cloth backing either. Did they switch back to a composite cork gasket without the cloth? Is it advisable to use that type or should I make one from gasket material? I want to leak test it before I put the rear end back in the frame. Has anyone ever spun the hydro with a drill? I tried and the drill would turn it, but I wasn't sure what to do with the hydro controls. I also have my sons pinewood derby race next Saturday and that will slow the cubs progress this week. Let me know your thoughts about the gasket and leak testing, thanks.
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#19
04-03-2021, 05:39 PM
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If it leaking nearer the top check the hydro relief valves.
__________________
Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade
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#20
04-03-2021, 06:15 PM
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2nd for relief valves.
Since they are tucked up underneath the main chassis they have a good place to hide. Pull the fender pan, then push it about 6ft or so and then wait. You'll probably see one leaking out the top.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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