The 125 Winter Project

[West Valley G]

As far as only 1/2” of thread engagement, that would more than likely be enough. General rule of thumb is 1 times the nominal screw diameter for steel holes, 2 for aluminum. Block is of course cast iron but I would think that ~1x nominal diameter engagement would be sufficient, especially since there isn’t a particularly large amount of thrust loading on that bearing/plate (or else they would have used tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings )

Good info. I might just go with the 1 inch bolts. I was really surprised
at how close the 1.25 inchers were to bottoming out. Pretty scary. Would
sure hate to crack a block.
Ken

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by RustyShackleford

https://resources.kohler.com/power/k...df/tp_2379.pdf

Page 12.10 lists 35ft-lbs for the bearing plate bolts on a K241, as Ken said.

As far as only 1/2” of thread engagement, that would more than likely be enough. General rule of thumb is 1 times the nominal screw diameter for steel holes, 2 for aluminum. Block is of course cast iron but I would think that ~1x nominal diameter engagement would be sufficient, especially since there isn’t a particularly large amount of thrust loading on that bearing/plate (or else they would have used tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings )

Btw, the fasteners in question are indeed 3/8-16.

Must be a misprint, that is why he broke them. The manual I have states if no torque value is given use the chart in the repair manual.

So doing the math for the one you listed still does not come out to 35ft. lbs.

[RustyShackleford]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Must be a misprint, that is why he broke them. The manual I have states if no torque value is given use the chart in the repair manual.

So doing the math for the one you listed still does not come out to 35ft. lbs.

Sure wouldn’t be the only misprint in them Kohler manuals

[West Valley G]

Just little update on the project. Got all insides of the engine put back in
. I sure love knowing that all that is clean and closed up.
Got a little break in the weather yesterday so I was able to do some painting.
Had a fire going in the warm side of shop. I would roll the engine out to
the unheated side. Put a coat of paint on and then roll back to the warm side.
After what seemed like an awful bunch a trips I had er done.
I found some engine high temp primer and put it down first. Then followed
with Case Iron Guard in Federal Yellow. I am not much of stickler for the
perfect color but was quite impressed how well it matched the original.
Hopefully today will be get the flywheel and PTO back on. Static time it
on the bench. Then we are pretty darn close to putting it back in the frame.
Hope you guys are well and enjoying some spring. There is something
quite special when the potential for new things growing starts to look
like it is really going to happen.

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[darkminion_17]

Looking good!

We hope you gonna replace the points wire and put a rubba thingy for the cover.

[RustyShackleford]

That Iron Gard is some good paint. The yellow doesn’t cover very well but that’s just yellow paint for ya. I was very impressed with how well it leveled and the gloss when I did mine. Looks like you’re getting real close

[West Valley G]

The little rubber thingy sealing up the points cover is there just not
visible in the picture.

I had to put quite a few light coats of the yellow on to cover but it
came out all right. And it dried well, a real bonus.

Well I got all excited 2 days ago and got the engine back in place.
I remembered as I put in place saying to myself, "These front engine
mount bolts are gonna be a bugger to put back." They certainly were.
Jacked up the frame a little from the axle to get some wiggle room. That
seemed to make it work.
It was all so exciting till it dawned on me yesterday. That in all my
excitement, I did not pull the wiring harness along the frame before
dropping the engine in. oops. Well I can assure you that it is possible
to get the harness in place after the fact. I would not recommend it
however. I won't ever do it that way again.
Today will get the rear end put back and recoupled. I hope.
Have a great day.

Ken

[West Valley G]

Thanks to the patience and help of the lovely lady I married many decades
ago, we got the rear end put back in the 125. I think I will build some kind
of rolling adjustable cart for this job in the future. It isn't hard a guy just needs
some extra hands, like lots of projects.
Will spend the next few days getting all the externals put on the engine
and fire it up. I find that one of the big challenges I have had is getting
things put back in the proper reverse sequence of the way I took it out.
Dawned me that I had not put the tension bracket for the starter/generator
on before I put the PTO on. Oops. Off came the PTO to put one bolt back
in. Fortunately it is a quick job once everything is clean. Also gave me a
chance to take a few clean pictures of the PTO. Maybe it will help someone
down the road wondering what it looks like in there.
Hope you all are doing well and getting some shop time in.

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[RustyShackleford]

You’re making some real good progress! I made the same mistake with the SG bracket

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by RustyShackleford

You’re making some real good progress! I made the same mistake with the SG bracket

BTDT, make sure you can remove the bolt now that you have the pulley on.