3000 series snow blower power chute rotator

[Lonstar]

I've been thinking about modding the chute on my 353 snow blower to get rid of the bar from the chute to the operator. I've read a lot about linear actuators to raise and lower the deflector, and power window/seat/tarp motors to rotate the chute.

It seems a power window motor to rotate the chute is fairly problem free if done right, but linear actuators freeze up or run slow for various reasons (type used, orientation it's installed, etc).

After some thought, I realized I already have a linear actuator, and it's better than an electric actuator - I can use the (left/right) hydraulic cylinder I removed from the hitch when I use the blower.

I could fabricate some brackets to mount it to the chute and raise/lower the deflector with the existing valve/handle. Mount the cylinder low enough on the chute that when fully extended, the deflector is in the fully down position, then use a 5/8 split collar as a stop when the deflector is fully raised.

I will never have a mower deck on the tractor, so I'm wondering how l could use the mower deck cylinder to spin the chute. Then use the existing valve/handle could operate it. The problem is I can't think of a way to spin the chute around with an actuator that pushes in and out.

Has anyone done this? Is it feasible?

[Sergeant]

Look at this Guys' chute rotation https://www.deckdolly.com/hydraulic-...54-snowblower/ for the Deere 47 & 54-inch Blower. If You Have two set of Outlets, something like the deck dolly chute rotation kit might work for your Blower if You don't Have two set of Outlets consider Investing in this as well https://summit-hydraulics.com/produc...button-switch/

See, I have Modified My Cub Cadet front hitch to be able to use Deere front attachments on My Cub Cadet 3208. But I only have 1 set of outlets, so I will eventually use the summit system On My 3208 so I can use My Deere 47-inch Blower on my 3208. But My real goal is to be able to use a Deere 51-inch Rotary Broom on my 3208

The front section of the Deere Front Quick Hitch will fit On the Cub Cadet Plate Assembly, Pivot with some spacers

[Lonstar]

Thanks for the recommendation, but $550 is a lot more than I want to spend! I'm hoping to use what I have, just weld up some brackets to make it work.

Yes, I have two outlets....well, 3 actually. I have the main hydraulic valve assembly with the center handle that raises and lowers the mower deck, and I also have a plow.

There are two accessory valve assemblies that go the the front hitch to operate the plow. One raises and lowers the hitch with a handle to the right of the deck handle, the other moves it left/right with the left handle. When the snowblower is attached, the left/right hydraulic cylinder is removed and replaced with a straight bar, the up/down cylinder stays.

I want to put the left/right cylinder on the blower chute to raise and lower the deflector with the left handle. I think this will be easy to fabricate, just needs a couple brackets to attach it to the chute. I'll probably need longer hoses too.

I was thinking about removing the cylinder that raises and lowers the mower deck and somehow connect it to the chute to spin it left/right. Then I can use the center handle to control it. I just don't know of a way to use a linear action, in/out cylinder to spin something. After looking at the deck dolly setup you linked, I realize what I need is a hydraulic motor, so thanks for the link, it pointed me in the right direction.
Hopefully I can find a cheap (used?) one with enough snot to do the job.

I don't know much about hydraulics, so I have to ask - why would you need to buy a $600 splitter to add another set of hydraulic controls to your tractor? If you only have one or two hydraulic valves on your 3208, why not just add another one?
I just did a quick search on ebay. Here is a set of auxiliary lines that run from a OEM hydraulic valve under the rear fender to the front of the tractor.
There aren't any hydraulic valves available now, but someone sold two of them for $15 a month ago. I'm sure more will be listed, or one can be sourced somewhere else.
You should be able to add another hydraulic circuit with a handle for under $200, and maybe a lot less.

Is there some other reason you need that splitter valve?

[Ambush]

I can’t imagine anything hydraulic being close to cheap, affective and trouble free as a surplus 12V window crank motor. A little wire, two alligator clips and a two position momentary switch.

Some walk behinds have power rotate chutes. Maybe just get one of those.

[Lonstar]

Originally Posted by Ambush

I can’t imagine anything hydraulic being close to cheap, affective and trouble free as a surplus 12V window crank motor. A little wire, two alligator clips and a two position momentary switch.

Some walk behinds have power rotate chutes. Maybe just get one of those.

I don't know which window motor to get. What do you use? What's the IP rating on it?

[Sergeant]

Originally Posted by Lonstar

Thanks for the recommendation, but $550 is a lot more than I want to spend! I'm hoping to use what I have, just weld up some brackets to make it work.

Yes, I have two outlets....well, 3 actually. I have the main hydraulic valve assembly with the center handle that raises and lowers the mower deck, and I also have a plow.

There are two accessory valve assemblies that go the the front hitch to operate the plow. One raises and lowers the hitch with a handle to the right of the deck handle, the other moves it left/right with the left handle. When the snowblower is attached, the left/right hydraulic cylinder is removed and replaced with a straight bar, the up/down cylinder stays.

I want to put the left/right cylinder on the blower chute to raise and lower the deflector with the left handle. I think this will be easy to fabricate, just needs a couple brackets to attach it to the chute. I'll probably need longer hoses too.

I was thinking about removing the cylinder that raises and lowers the mower deck and somehow connect it to the chute to spin it left/right. Then I can use the center handle to control it. I just don't know of a way to use a linear action, in/out cylinder to spin something. After looking at the deck dolly setup you linked, I realize what I need is a hydraulic motor, so thanks for the link, it pointed me in the right direction.
Hopefully I can find a cheap (used?) one with enough snot to do the job.

I don't know much about hydraulics, so I have to ask - why would you need to buy a $600 splitter to add another set of hydraulic controls to your tractor? If you only have one or two hydraulic valves on your 3208, why not just add another one?
I just did a quick search on ebay. Here is a set of auxiliary lines that run from a OEM hydraulic valve under the rear fender to the front of the tractor.
There aren't any hydraulic valves available now, but someone sold two of them for $15 a month ago. I'm sure more will be listed, or one can be sourced somewhere else.
You should be able to add another hydraulic circuit with a handle for under $200, and maybe a lot less.

Is there some other reason you need that splitter valve?

I have 3 Levers, one for the deck, one for the Cat 0 3 point Hitch and one for 1 set of Outlets which are used to control the Front Hitch Hydraulic Lift cylinder. I need the splitter so I can control the angle, as well for the Front Blade or Rotary Broom.

The Kit for the 4th lever are just too Hard to find and can end up costing More than the summit splitter because they are considered No longer Available from MTD/Cub Cadet. I have the Other Hard Lines as well for the angle, But can't use them with the 3 levers that I have Because of the Cat 0 3point Hitch. I am using the Manual angle Kit right now, But I would rather Have Hydraulic angle, and with the summit Kit I can use 1 lever and Button to control the Hydraulic angle and Lift. BTW I have already converted My Cat 0 3-point hitch to a Limited Cat 1 3-point hitch as well

My snow removal crew Minus the Blade or Broom on the 3208

[Ambush]

I don’t have one on a snowblower but have used them in a few applications.

I have one that’s been running a two inch auger on an animal feeder for about eight years now, or so, I think. That one runs on a timer.

I built a steering system for the kicker on a boat. I adapted a window motor to a marine rotary helm and used a cheap wireless winch control. It was still going after four years, when I sold it.

I currently am planning another auger drive, but this time three inch.

I choose the motor based on how easy it is to make a coupler and for mounting. In your case, I’d plane to mount and couple it to the knuckle at the at the chute rotate drive hub.


Of the two motors pictured the one with the acme thread is easy. Cut it off at the length you want. Pin or weld a tube over it that will also slide over the stub left when you cut off the manual handle.

The little motor is a 1/4” square bore. You could just weld a couple inches of key stock into the rotate drive hub input and slip it over. Then you just have to keep the motor body from rotating instead of the hub.

I buy motors from a local surplus store, much like your Harbor Freight.

I would use alligator clips on the battery that go to a two position rocker switch (center return) which I would tape or clamp in a handy spot. Run wires from the switch to the motor. Easy to detach and leave with the blower.

You would want yo cover the motor from snow.

One hydraulic hose would cost more than all that. I like hydraulics, but just can’t see using it in this application.

[Ambush]

Found this pic on the net that explains about what I’m trying to say.

[MSS7120]

I was going to do something similar, but ended up getting a different snow removal system before finishing. I have attached a pic of the gear set i generated. The idea was to remove the discharge chute and attach the larger gear at the base of the chute and sandwich it in-between the blower housing. I can send a higher resolution image when printed on 11 x 17 in paper is 1 to 1. You can attached to cardboard, Masonite, aluminum or what ever and cut your gear profile. I can also send an dxf that you could have laser cut if you like.

I am using Matthias Wandel's gear program.
https://woodgears.ca/gear/index.html