Cub Cadet 2182 How to Replace Hydrostatic Pump Shaft Seal Part#921-3032

[jarpajack]

On my 2182, one of my power steering pump hydrostatic lines was leaking like a sieve due to it being cracked at the fitting. I replaced that and noticed that the input shaft is leaking/spraying oil as well... sigh if it's not one thing it's another.

I have ordered a replacement gasket (part number 921-3032) and have been trying to figure out just how to get the cover off. I know that there's the input shaft that goes into the hydrostatic pump. There's also two bolts that hold the housing (part #55 in the diagram linked below).

While I am mechanically inclined; I just want to know I know what I'm getting myself into before I start tearing it apart.

Do I have to disconnect the entire shaft from the engine or can I get away with removing the fan?

Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

https://www.partstree.com/models/105...ansmission-12/

[Frank1541]

I would pull the entire unit from the tractor and rebuild it on the bench. I would work on the premise that all the seals are bad, given the failure of two so far. The rebuild is actually pretty easy, if you take your time, take lots of pictures and keep things clean. There are many threads on this subject on this and other forums.

[ironman]

Prolly wouldn't hurt to have this in front of you....
https://media.toro.com/servicemanuals/sd_15svc.pdf

[Billy-O]

If that seal is the only one leaking, I'd avoid taking apart the pump, much less remove the charge pump. Unless the bearing there is suspect...if that's the cause of the bad seal. The Sunstrand pump surgery requires very clean enviroment. To avoid this, You can pull an old oil seal without removal of the charge pump by using a couple sheet metal or wood screws. You need to drive the screws into body of seal and then pry on screws to lift the seal. To start a hole, I use a sharp point awl to punch a hole into the metal body of the old seal and drive the screws in. No drilling. No metal shards. Make sure you clean the area before the procedure.

[ol'George]

If you are calling that part number a "gasket" and not a seal, which it is, then I am assuming it might be best if you don't take the pump apart.
I'm not talking down to you, but trying to prevent you from getting into a repair
that might not turn out well for you.
As far as replacing the seal you have ordered, it was mentioned to remove it with the Sheetmetal screws which works well most times but one has to be careful to not damage the shaft or the bore it lives in.
OR
The housing can be removed by just removing the 2 hex bolts that retains it.
Of course one has to remove the drive coupling on the input shaft first for either procedure so the seal can be slid off it and the new one installed.

Then pay attention to put the housing back on the same way it come off--in other words paying attention to the milled flat spot on the housing (#55) it needs to go back on with the milled flat on the same side, if not it won't pump.
of course you should also replace "O" ring (#43) that seals the #55 housing to the hydro case if you remove #55 housing.
Also if you don't know, make sure the shaft is without burs around where the coiled pin retains the coupling so as not to nick the new seal.
Also a dab of grease in the center of the new shaft seal will insure that the seal does not start off dry.
Please understand I have no knowledge of your experience or lack of it.

[jarpajack]

Originally Posted by ol'George

If you are calling that part number a "gasket" and not a seal, which it is, then I am assuming it might be best if you don't take the pump apart.
I'm not talking down to you, but trying to prevent you from getting into a repair
that might not turn out well for you.
As far as replacing the seal you have ordered, it was mentioned to remove it with the Sheetmetal screws which works well most times but one has to be careful to not damage the shaft or the bore it lives in.
OR
The housing can be removed by just removing the 2 hex bolts that retains it.
Of course one has to remove the drive coupling on the input shaft first for either procedure so the seal can be slid off it and the new one installed.

Then pay attention to put the housing back on the same way it come off--in other words paying attention to the milled flat spot on the housing (#55) it needs to go back on with the milled flat on the same side, if not it won't pump.
of course you should also replace "O" ring (#43) that seals the #55 housing to the hydro case if you remove #55 housing.
Also if you don't know, make sure the shaft is without burs around where the coiled pin retains the coupling so as not to nick the new seal.
Also a dab of grease in the center of the new shaft seal will insure that the seal does not start off dry.
Please understand I have no knowledge of your experience or lack of it.

George,

no offense taken here as I am certainly not thin skinned and am always willing to learn.

I suppose me interchanging seal for gasket does make me look green...

But regardless I appreciate your and others insight.

As this is the only true seal (not gasket) that's leaking (the hydraulic line was physically cracked, and the previous owner zip tied a misc. object onto it to suppress the leak). I think I am just going to use the technique of gentle extraction with some screws.

Fingers crossed it's just the seal and not the charge pump needle bearing. I did check for shaft play and all seemed normal

[ol'George]

Don't fret the seal extraction gives you Grief (they usually don't) as the oval casting it lives in is an easy removal if needed.
An FYI, the o ring is called out as 2/3/8" X 2-1/2".
Most larger HWD stores should have it for less than $2. actually some might be under a dollar.
Just keep us in the loop and we can help, its a relative easy job.

But be fore warned with the leak fixed, No more rust preventive hyd oil will leak on your mower deck!