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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Rear Engine Rider & ZTR (RER)

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  #11  
Old 08-24-2026, 02:35 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC Taylor View Post
Did not leave info out intentionally. I fear its gone. just looking for opinions etc

Thanks All
oh, no offence,the devil is in the details, wish I had better news for you.
Keep us informed everybody likes happy endings and this "movie" is interesting.
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2026, 02:48 PM
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CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is offline
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Check at Small engine warehouse.

https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2026, 04:28 PM
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What is the model # of the Kawasaki engine? Just curious since search 24 hp kawasaki finds prices ranging $1700 and way up.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2026, 05:00 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Ah,
as Paul Harvey used to say "now the rest of rhe story"
White smoke says the indians are restless, not a good sign.
The bore/rings are hurt, hopefully the rest of the rotating mass is not hurt.
I'm not as optomistic as earlier when you only told the shortened version of what happened.
If it were mine, I'd get into the inner gizzards and see what this chicken has been eating and how far they are "digested" if you have the abilities to do such work,
obviously its 'hurt" no mechanic in a bottle is gonna fix this "patient"
The bare minimum is its gonna need a rebore with associated matching pistons/rings.
Now I'm not familar with that engine and what it has for cyliners, but if its aluminum that is chrome plated in the bore, pretty much no fixing it cheep.
if its cast iron its just a regular rebore/hone to oversize.
By pulling the heads you should be able see any scoring of the walls.
The fact that it was being operated while hurt, does not make me warm and fuzzy, or to advise purchasing a lottery ticket.
I'm just trying to be brutally honest.
Like a doctor, symptoms are a important but Cat scans, MRI's and exploratory
surgery will reveal the true condition of the parts inside.
If you really like the mower,and feel the hydro's are going to last a long time, then if it needs a motor it might justify the expense.
I am with George- I still would not give up- until its torn down and inspected. i would not spend money on parts until you know if it can be saved. again agreeing with George as I said initially if the bearings and/or cam are gone its trash. but if it is not too far gone in the cylinders I would consider a hone and re-ring. If its down to a bore and oversized pistons it is likely a financial total loss on the engine- you can check the market for used or mowers with that engine that have other damage - bad hydros or something like that.
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2026, 01:46 PM
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Hate to burst your bubble and while I'm new here posting, I've been working on anything with a motor for many years as a DiY. Blowing out ANY smoke is not good. If gas was leaking into the motor and thinning out the oil, then those rings have seen their life span. You can change out carbs, do a valve job with new head gaskets, change the oil, every cheap option in the book, but it still won't replace your problem. New Rings needed, along with new crank rod bearings, as I bet the gas also thinned the oil enough that you'll soon have rod knock if those lower end bearings aren't changed too, to bring back the proper bearing spec.

If you say you have a mechanic that can rebuild to within what an online seller can get you an engine for, I'd go with that good mechanic. This way, if problems crop up within a warranty, you have someone close by that can correct the problem quickly by laying eyes on to fix, rather than trying to go thru someone hundreds/thousand of miles away.

You can also negotiate with your local mechanic about how you might want done with your motor to make work like new.

I just recently got a 2008 Recon Tank, but has 25hp Kohler motor on it. They're worth keeping and made to work.
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