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  #1  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:49 AM
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Question engine modifications?

what all would need to be done to a cub cadet 100 to make it run at max horse power for a 1500lb wegiht class??????? with a 10 or 12 hp kohler?
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cub100 View Post
what all would need to be done to a cub cadet 100 to make it run at max horse power for a 1500lb wegiht class??????? with a 10 or 12 hp kohler?

Cub110, I myself am in the process of building a puller. It all depends on class rules and how much money you are willing to put forth. Trust me, you can spend a bunch of it quick on hi-performance pulling parts. The K301 I am currently building is getting a 18hp camshaft, milled head w/ copper head gasket, #26 or #30 carb (not sure which one yet), exhuast stack, and stock rotating assembly. Removing the starter/generator is supposed to be worth 1 hp. Another cub member here stated that 30hp plus requires transsmission upgrades. BTW, Welcome to OCC.net!
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:41 PM
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Horse Power cost money!!!!!

Run the biggest motor you can run in that class. Check out the Killer Kohler build up in this site: http://kirkengines.com/

The motor in my 100 has the same mods done to it that David Kirk did to his 1250. It did make a big difference to the motor. I would stay away from the 18 horse power cam. I use to have one in a K321 block. You can make better power from Kirk's cheater cam. I would check with Vogel, Midwest Super Cub and Lakota to see what cams they offer.

To get 30 horse power you will need to go to alcohol and the biggest motor allowed in the class. Alcohol can be pain to use if you don't know what you are doing. Best thing you can do is run on gas and get use to a modified motor first. Trying to run too big of a carb with hurt performace. I would check the class rules first to see what size bore in the carb they allow. That could help to deside what carb to run.

If you having mega horse power you will need to beef up the clutch, driveshaft and trans/rear end. Selecting the right tires and gearing is a must too. The biggest factor is getting the weight balance set right.

Start out in a stock/run what you got type class. The first thing you need to learn is proper balance.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:42 AM
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thanks for all the helpful information i will chack out the site and soon as the fairboard emails me the rules i will post them for you guys and then you can see what you think?
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:10 AM
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Merk and Cub100, I said I was going to use an "18 hp camshaft". I ment to say a "Kirk cheater cam". The 18hp camshaft is NLA. The Kirk cheater camshaft has much better specs than a K361 camshaft.
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2011, 03:19 PM
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and how much exactly would that cheater cam cost cause i have a feeling its gonna burn a whole through my pocket! :/
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:50 PM
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I am ordering the same one for my 128 and then for my 169 when I rebuild it.

Cam.jpg
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:48 PM
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I would buy new valve springs and tappets too. I used a set of wide bass tappets when I rebuild my K241.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:51 PM
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now what sites are u getting them from?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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