Deck spindle dilemma...need help please!

sslick · #1 05-25-2011, 12:54 PM

I recently bought my first Cub...a 3240 with a 54" deck and 46" (?) snowblower attachment. It seems like a really well-built machine and I can't wait to use it, but here's my dilemma....
The deck needed some work and the dealer that sold me the tractor agreed to replace all 3 spindles for me after I grabbed the blade and noticed some endplay in the bearings. So, the new spindles arrived along with my new blades and everything's all bolted up and ready to go, or so I thought. There is still a significant amount of endplay in all 3 new (genuine Cub (MTD)) spindles.
After calling around and asking whether or not new spindles should be loose, I got 2 different answers from 2 different Cub Cadet service techs. One says "yes, they should have some endplay", the other says "no, absolutely not...send them all back"!!!
I understand the concept of bearing preload and know that there needs to be a certain amount of space between the bearing and race to allow for grease and heat expansion. Can anyone tell me what the recommended preload (endplay) should be??? I have 54" deck #190-290-100 with spindles #759-3665. These are the tapered roller bearing style with a spacer each between the upper and lower bearing and another between the upper and lower races. These spacers are the cause of the endplay. BTW...I managed to rig up an old brake rotor runout guage between the blade and deck and measured the endplay.... it's .023 on one and the others are comperable. WAY too much in my opinion.
Can someone tell me for sure what the endplay should be??? Maybe I'm doing something wrong???? Thanks in advance-

ol'George · #2 05-25-2011, 04:05 PM

I’m not familiar with your deck,
But if your Bearings are the tapered type like auto wheel bearings, they should have the same sort of clearance.
You are correct,.020 + is too much, a few tho' at best would be good. I don't know how yours is assembled,
But you have to either bring the cones closer together on the shaft or the cups farther apart in the outer bore.
Usually the tubular spacer on the shaft is decreased in length, to bring the cones together getting your desired clearance.
Is it possible you have some spacers in there that should not be??
In other words, usually there is only a tube spacer between the cones, no shim washers.

sslick · #3 05-28-2011, 01:34 PM

Thanks for the reply, 'ol George. I guess I've managed to stump most everyone judging from all the views vs. replies! It sounds like you and I are on the same page though.
I've managed to correct the problem in 2 of the 3 spindles by shortening the spacer between the bearings (cones)...endplay is now at .003 on both. On the 3rd one, I'm having a problem. I adjusted it the same as the other two, spun the blade and heard a thump, thump noise every time it came around. I believe this to be a result of my 1st attempt to correct the endplay problem. I took too much mat'l off the spacer, torqued everything down and crushed the bearing (thus, thump, thump). Sooooo, I replaced the bearings and races in that spindle thinking it would solve my problem (with identical bearings). Now, (with a spacer that has not been ground down) there is absolutely no end play and I'm afraid of torqueing everything down in fear of crushing the bearings again! I'm really not having good luck with this and I'm at witt's-end. I really want the service/adjustment procedure for the spindles and/or the specs. (wear limits, etc, etc.) but of course, all that is dealer only stuff.
Again, thanks for the reply. I'm gonna give it a day or two before I work on it again...need some time to cool off!!!

truckntran · #4 05-28-2011, 03:24 PM

On the one that is too tight already can you use a thin washer shaped shim in there to take up the room a longer spacer would have taken? Check out the hardware bins in your larger or better hardware stores, you might find something there you can use...

ol'George · #5 05-28-2011, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sslick

Thanks for the reply, 'ol George. I guess I've managed to stump most everyone judging from all the views vs. replies! It sounds like you and I are on the same page though.
I've managed to correct the problem in 2 of the 3 spindles by shortening the spacer between the bearings (cones)...endplay is now at .003 on both. On the 3rd one, I'm having a problem. I adjusted it the same as the other two, spun the blade and heard a thump, thump noise every time it came around. I believe this to be a result of my 1st attempt to correct the endplay problem. I took too much mat'l off the spacer, torqued everything down and crushed the bearing (thus, thump, thump). Sooooo, I replaced the bearings and races in that spindle thinking it would solve my problem (with identical bearings). Now, (with a spacer that has not been ground down) there is absolutely no end play and I'm afraid of torqueing everything down in fear of crushing the bearings again! I'm really not having good luck with this and I'm at witt's-end. I really want the service/adjustment procedure for the spindles and/or the specs. (wear limits, etc, etc.) but of course, all that is dealer only stuff.
Again, thanks for the reply. I'm gonna give it a day or two before I work on it again...need some time to cool off!!!

Are your cups seated fully?
if so go ahead and put a spacer between the cones, sometimes you can use one from the top or bottom of the spindle as they sometimes have one as the pervious poster suggested.
It just puzzles me why they had so much clearance to start with, unless the previous person in there did or changed something. Normally bearings are darn near identicial out of the box, like within less than half a tho'
Sounds like you are doing fine, just need a little adjustment in the clearance.
If you can't get the right thickness washer, just go thicker and shorten the spacer a little more, better a thick shim spacer and it will not crush or pound out
You don't do a preload like you do on a differential ring/pinion.
Do a little clearance just like a front wheel bearing on a non front wheel drive vehicle.
snug it up and back off 1 flat, your .003 sounds good.
when you get it right, an occasional greasing, and you will most likely never have to do it again.
As an afterthought, check the spacer dimentions, you might find a piece of pipe or hyd. tubing laying around that is the same dimention and just make a new one the correct length. It don't have to be perfect as long as it sets on the bearing, and the shaft will slide through it.
hope this helps ya.

sslick · #6 05-30-2011, 01:23 PM

Well, got it all adjusted the best I could. I think part of the problem may have been lack of a stable base for the dial indicator and magnetic stand that I was using. I was getting some movement from the base which was adding to the endplay results. The deck is back together and hangs from the tractor now. It's just a matter of deck adjustment now. This is the 1st time I've tried the deck since I've had the tractor and I must say....I'd hate to be on the business end of the chute and have a rock get flung outta there!!! Man, that thing spins like mad! (54" deck, 3 blades, 22hp Kohler, and shaft drive).
Once again, thanks for everything guys-