1872 - Standard SGT rear end... - Page 3

Methos · #21 07-04-2011, 12:21 PM

What did I miss any updates?

j.m.jackson · #22 07-05-2011, 12:52 AM

No, I spent the weekend working on other stuff, but I did the the CI rear cleaned up. Hopefully I'll get to installing the AL carrier and setting the preload on it this week.

j.m.jackson · #23 07-05-2011, 02:03 PM

What do ya'll use to get the gasket surfaces clean on these? The only one that came off clean was the cork gasket on the top cover, and the hydro gasket...

Matt G. · #24 07-05-2011, 04:07 PM

Gasket remover and a razor blade.

j.m.jackson · #25 07-08-2011, 01:29 AM

That worked (razor blade and gasket remover). I had to split the carrier to get it into the casing, and I'm setting the preload on it. It takes around 5-7 lbs of force right now to spin it over, so that should be about right (with 6 shims). Next, the pinion.

j.m.jackson · #26 07-08-2011, 05:47 PM

Just ordered all the gaskets to get it back together, plus axle seals and the coupler for the motor end of the driveshaft. Anyone out there have the hydro end coupler for sale?

j.m.jackson · #27 07-09-2011, 10:37 PM

I've got the preload set and the pinion in. The left hand diff bearing holder was a little too tight in the CI housing, so I 'adjusted' the diff bearing holder with the grinding wheel. I'm ready to check the backlash, so off to harbor freight or northern tool tomorrow, maybe.

The front of the driveshaft is boogered up, i'm going to try and weld it and grind it down when the new front engine to driveshaft coupler arrives (the end with the bushing). Also found out that the super driveshaft is a larger diameter than a standard one, meaning that my stack of cooling fans won't work. More $, but it's worth it.

Methos · #28 07-09-2011, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

I've got the preload set and the pinion in. The left hand diff bearing holder was a little too tight in the CI housing, so I 'adjusted' the diff bearing holder with the grinding wheel. I'm ready to check the backlash, so off to harbor freight or northern tool tomorrow, maybe.

The front of the driveshaft is boogered up, i'm going to try and weld it and grind it down when the new front engine to driveshaft coupler arrives (the end with the bushing). Also found out that the super driveshaft is a larger diameter than a standard one, meaning that my stack of cooling fans won't work. More $, but it's worth it.

Sounds like your making progress. Trust me when I say that having the drive shaft come back out is not a pleasent thing to have happen. If your going to weld the drive shaft I assume that that you have a way to turn the drive shaft back down to size, and if so why not just make a new drive shaft? I've heard that not all of the super drive shafts are larger. My 2072 has the larger drive shaft but I have been thinking about putting in a new 5/8 shaft and put another fan on it. I need to go check some part numbers out before I decide to do that tho.

j.m.jackson · #29 07-09-2011, 11:40 PM

I don't have a way to turn it, i'm just going to try and get it as close as I can. A new driveshaft is $90, so I'll see if I can get it close enough. I saw one of the sponsers offers SS driveshafts for what, $40? I may go that route.

j.m.jackson · #30 07-14-2011, 09:46 AM

So I had time last night to work on the driveshaft and the rear end, after purchasing a digital veneer caliper so I can measure the backlash with the depth finder against the back cover plate bolted on sideways, and the top tooth of the diff gear. Not the best way, but I got it within 0.005, with the spec being 0.003 to 0.008. Hopefully the parts fairy will come soon and drop off some goodies like gaskets. Should I use anything on the gaskets, or should they be installed dry?

The driveshaft was worn about 3/16th of an inch on one side where it goes into the couple on the engine side. It had to be vibrating terribly for a long time for it to wear like it was. I welded it up, and then ground it back down. Not perfect, but it's a good tight fit in the bronze bushing on the engine end.

This was an internal brake CI rear, but I didn't have to do any grinding in the case to get the larger super reduction gear in. I did have to take the carrier apart and reassemble it inside the case, tho, as it wouldn't fit through the opening it the back without doing so.

You can see where the driveshaft exited the motor end of the coupler. The hydro end is uglier, with a broken ear on it's coupler.