governor issue - Page 2

Bathtub · #11 09-22-2011, 06:35 PM

Thanks. Very much appreciated. You're fast. I just sent you an e-mail asking you to look at this. I'll let you know how I make out.

_DX3_ · #12 09-22-2011, 06:38 PM

If you don't have it already, you should go to our GT technical library and download the Kohler Motor service manual. It will tell and show you everything you will need to know about the motor.

only1stegall · #13 09-22-2011, 07:12 PM

having the same issue with my 149....

the shaft turns 1/4 turn maybe? not 360...

after resetting the arms per the FSM it still will not limit the engine...

engine runs excellent, but will over rev easily, and since you cant just set the throttle and let it run, you have to fool with the throttle constantly if you are plowing or some thing... very aggravating...

whats an approx cost for a rebuild ? It does not smoke at all, so if all I did was hone the cylinder and replace rings, and replace / the governor what kind of money would I be looking at ? I would assume all the gaskets I would need would be readily available.....

_DX3_ · #14 09-22-2011, 07:16 PM

Based upon what you mention without any other issues being found I would say under $300. The only thing I would add, is to go ahead and buy a new OEM Kohler rod and replace the old one. They do get stressed with age and can let go. Your Governor gear itself sounds damaged.

only1stegall · #15 09-22-2011, 07:32 PM

I was just reading over the FSM procedure again and it says

"with the engine off, the throttle will be in the WOT position "

this is not true on my engine... it falls to the closed position....

im guessing the "tab" that breaks is the one outlined here in this picture? does the entire engine require being disassembled to remove and replace/repair the xshaft ?

_DX3_ · #16 09-22-2011, 07:48 PM

I have read where a few people have been able to use extended flexible magnets and grapples to remove and replace the xshaft. Put it this way, you have nothing to lose by trying

. This will be a good time to also see if you have the grenade gears in your motor. If so, it would be worth it to remove them also. Sorry those are better known as balance gears. It might make for some extra room if you removed the piston and rod thru the top of the cylinder as long as there is no ridge at the top of the cylinder.

Matt G. · #17 09-23-2011, 07:57 AM

If the tab is gone, it will turn more than 1/4 turn.

Before you tear the engine all apart, there's one more thing to try. Reset the governor arm again, but you have to go a little further with the arm. If I remember correctly, the procedure to reset the governor is to loosen the arm, rotate the arm towards the carb as far as it will go (check the manual, I might have this backwards) and then hold the arm in position towards the carb and rotate the shaft CW until it stops. Now, instead of tightening the arm, rotate the whole assembly CCW a bit, and then rotate the shaft CW again until it stops, then tighten the arm. If I don't have that completely backwards (once again, it's been a couple years since I've had to adjust a governor) that should slow it down. I had to do that on a tractor once to get it to work. If that didn't make any sense, I'll look up the procedure in the manual and re-explain this later tonight, but I don't have time right now.

only1stegall · #18 09-23-2011, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

If the tab is gone, it will turn more than 1/4 turn.

Before you tear the engine all apart, there's one more thing to try. Reset the governor arm again, but you have to go a little further with the arm. If I remember correctly, the procedure to reset the governor is to loosen the arm, rotate the arm towards the carb as far as it will go (check the manual, I might have this backwards) and then hold the arm in position towards the carb and rotate the shaft CW until it stops. Now, instead of tightening the arm, rotate the whole assembly CCW a bit, and then rotate the shaft CW again until it stops, then tighten the arm. If I don't have that completely backwards (once again, it's been a couple years since I've had to adjust a governor) that should slow it down. I had to do that on a tractor once to get it to work. If that didn't make any sense, I'll look up the procedure in the manual and re-explain this later tonight, but I don't have time right now.

the fsm tells you to pull the governor arm AWAY from the carb as far as it will allow, and then rotate the xshaft CCW until it stops. This isnt a typo is it ?

if the tab is not broken off the cross shaft, is there some thing to breaks or stops working with the gear? what else can cause the gov not to function correctly if the xshaft is alright ?

only1stegall · #19 09-23-2011, 08:45 AM

also, how does the gear work...

im looking at it in the pictures, and im assuming that as it spins, centrifugal force throws the little weights out which causes the button on the gear to action out and pushes against the tab on the xshaft?

Do these break? Gummed up from sitting to long maybe?

The FSM also tells me that when the engine is off, the throttle will be in the wot position, and mine does not do this... don't know if that matters or not..... I don't see any label of throttle return springs either... im lost here!!

Matt G. · #20 09-23-2011, 10:05 PM

Told ya I probably had it backwards...

The manual is correct, so follow that, then rotate the whole thing CW a bit, then rotate the shaft further CCW. That should help. I forgot to ask, do you have the correct governor spring in the correct holes? That will also make a difference...

With the engine off, the throttle will be at WOT if you have the throttle lever there.