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  #11  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:06 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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You guys are all wrong
The part that the picture shows IS PART of the 3 pin driver
It is broken free of the remainder of the driver and should be a crimp fit to the driver itself. When you purchase a new driver it is part of the ass'ly.

You may be able to use a sharp 1/2" or so chisel between the hub adaptor and what's left of the driver ass'ly to get them separated by tapping around the circumference, either way the 3 pin driver will likely be toast so dig into your piggy bank to see if there is about $120 in there somewhere!

Once you get it apart, I think it would be possible to weld it back on the driver, But it will be likely to un-balance the while affair and maybe warp it in the process, worth a try anyway.

The hub will, as has been suggested, will come off the f/wheel with a few sideways taps back and forth once the nut holding it to the C/shaft has been removed. You will need a steering wheel puller to remove the F/W using the 2 threaded holes provided. Be sure and screw the nut on flush with the C/S end so as not to damage the threads w/the puller and to avoid injury to self when it pops loose which it will do with a bang.

Good Luck!
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:15 PM
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Daniel1962 Daniel1962 is offline
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Now I am really confused,
I found this picture on online, Its the drive cup.
This is what I have and It does appear that the bearing is pressed in.


The 3 pin driver, came off with removal of these 4 small hex head bolts. And yes, it is cracked a bit, and I probably get another one. So I am still at the point that I need to get this pulley off. It does look
like a pilot bearing puller will work. I dont have one just yet. Still open for ideas. Its amazing all the different info posted here.
Thanks
Dave
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File Type: jpg drivecupassembly.jpg (13.1 KB, 110 views)
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:26 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
You guys are all wrong
The part that the picture shows IS PART of the 3 pin driver
It is broken free of the remainder of the driver and should be a crimp fit to the driver itself. When you purchase a new driver it is part of the ass'ly.

You may be able to use a sharp 1/2" or so chisel between the hub adaptor and what's left of the driver ass'ly to get them separated by tapping around the circumference, either way the 3 pin driver will likely be toast so dig into your piggy bank to see if there is about $120 in there somewhere!

Once you get it apart, I think it would be possible to weld it back on the driver, But it will be likely to un-balance the while affair and maybe warp it in the process, worth a try anyway.

The hub will, as has been suggested, will come off the f/wheel with a few sideways taps back and forth once the nut holding it to the C/shaft has been removed. You will need a steering wheel puller to remove the F/W using the 2 threaded holes provided. Be sure and screw the nut on flush with the C/S end so as not to damage the threads w/the puller and to avoid injury to self when it pops loose which it will do with a bang.

Good Luck!
OK if you say so. Excuse me for taking the time to look it up on the Cub parts site. Since you are the expert please take over. I should know better.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:30 PM
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Daniel1962 Daniel1962 is offline
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Folks I really appreciate all the advice, I sure dont want to start an argument
amongst you veteran Cub owners. I'm just a new guy on here looking for help
on disassembly

thank you All
Dave
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
You guys are all wrong
No..... the original info is correct. The QL's (AQS motors) used a different set-up than all other gear drive tractors. I'm quite certain.
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:47 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel1962 View Post
Folks I really appreciate all the advice, I sure dont want to start an argument
amongst you veteran Cub owners. I'm just a new guy on here looking for help
on disassembly

thank you All
Dave
Dave

You are not starting an argument. You're just asking for advice, that's why your here. I just get PO'd when someone jumps in that doesn't know what he is talking about.

The quiet line tractors because of the rubber engine mounts needed a flexible coupling at the clutch to allow some degree of flex so they inserted the ball bushing into the hub. The ridged mounted engines like in the older tractors had the bushing as part of the 3 pin driver.

Remove the ball bushing and behind it you will find a nut that must be removed in order the pull the flywheel.

Hope this helps.
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2015, 04:53 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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The Quiet Line manual transmission IH Cub Cadets had 2 different styles of pilot bearing. It depends when the tractor was made.

The 2nd picture in the 1st post shows the pilot bearing in the hub adapter. This is how it suppose to be. The newer 3 pin drivers and hub adapter were design to be separate parts. Look close just inside the 4 bolt holes that held the 3 pin driver on. You can see the outside of the pilot bearing housing. I would try a bearing puller or a thin blade screwdriver around the outside of the bearing....not the swivel bushing. The last tool you want to use is a 1/2 or so chisel.
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2015, 05:03 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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This is from the Cub parts site. The parts in the red circle are what you are dealing with. Pic is for a Cub 1200. You have not told us what model your working on so this is my best guess. I'm pretty sure you have the part # 29 style. From the drawing you have already removed # 8, now you need to remove # 29 then you need to remove the nut holding the coupling to the flywheel then you can remove flywheel.
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  #19  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:09 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Good morning folks, I've got a 12hp 301 and I am down to the flywheel removal. I'm not sure what I need to do next, Please take a look at the picture, I am curious about the small pulley up front, that has the 4 small
screw holes, What do I need to remove it? I have a Puller for the flywheel
but I assume I need to get this off 1st.
This is the original post. It is sparse as far as information. A lot of posts have come forward and yet NOWHERE does he say what model of Cub Cadet he is working on. There is a lot of "assumptions" that maybe irrelevant.

In order for this thread to continue, it would be imperative that we know the COMPLETE and CORRECT information so the proper responses can be sought.
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  #20  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:32 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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He's working on a 1200. However I see your point about extra info needed. Not sure if the pictures were part of the original post but the bearing gave it away for me
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