Drive shaft pillow block bearing

[mickb72]

Hi Sam. What makes you think the long coupler makes it spin out of round? The rear and motor are bolted in stock frame holes. Maybe a twist in the frame? Mike

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by mickb72

Hi Sam. What makes you think the long coupler makes it spin out of round? The rear and motor are bolted in stock frame holes. Maybe a twist in the frame? Mike

Well I got it apart yesterday and the long coupler is a very sloppy fit on both the pinion and the drive shaft so it allows the drive shaft the run out of round at the pinion end. If any of you want the coupler it's yours for the shipping cost. I got to rummaging around in my "Save it, I may use it someday pile", I have a spicer U-joint with 5/8" bores on the yokes so the coupler will be replaced with that. I'll need to shorten the drive shaft and have a keyway cut in it. The yokes are a nice tight fit on the shaft and pinion.

[Sam Mac]

Update. Took the drive shaft to my local machine shop after I cut it to the correct length for the U-joint. They milled it for a keyway. Went to TSC and picked up two 5/8" shaft collars. I installed both back to back just to make sure that when I engage the clutch the shaft doesn't push into the U-joint yoke. Came home and put it back together. No more vibration. Just my 2 cents if you intend to use the MWSC coupler I would also install a pillow block bearing. The coupler is just to loose to keep the shaft in proper alignment without the additional support provided by a pillow block. Had I known this when I bought this setup I would have chosen a different route. Anyway think I have my problem cured and I just want to say thank you to those that took the time to answer my questions and post pics.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

.......... The coupler is just to loose to keep the shaft in proper alignment without the additional support provided by a pillow block.................

If you need a long coupler, I could have made one to your specs. A thousandth or two is all the "extra" space needed.

A slip fit is fine, wobble causes more problems.

[wally67]

Hey Sam could you post some pictures of your set up I have the exact same problem with my 128. I like the idea of U-joints and pillow block bearing.
Thanks, Wally

[Sam Mac]

I didn't use a pillow block just the U-joint. I'll try to get some pics.

[dvogtvpe]

We spin our engines pretty fast and don't have any issues with those couplers. I've had the same one in my puller for probably 15 years and develop close to 60 ft lbs of torque spinning the driveline in the 6 to 7500 rpm range the majority of the time. I've seen no signs of wear on the input or the driveshaft. I do know people that have used u joints but only because they built very flexible chassis and were getting allot of twist. my frame when I first built the tractor flexed about 2.25 inchs with no driveline issues. in a previous tractor I ran 2.5 inchs. they can twist a fair amount without problems but you will at a certain point get some binding that will pull the motor down when it starts to bind up. I run a solid front axle witch magnifys the twist vs a pivoting front axle.

[Sam Mac]

Guys, I'm sure that had I installed a pillow block when I put this thing together it would not have had a problem. I also probably should have converted the engine to a flat pan. The deep sump on the Mag12 forces me to have to remove the engine vertically rather than being able to slid it forward. My idea for using the long coupler was to be able to move the clutch and drive shaft to the rear for clearance. Oh well it's done now and so far it works. If it shoots craps I'll just stick a regular length shaft in it.

[Sam Mac]

Pic of the U-joint.

[rwairforce]

I like it Sam. Good job!
Looks like the setup the old Masseys have on them. My friends MF16 has a beefy driveshaft with ujoints on each end.