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  #11  
Old 03-17-2016, 12:37 AM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
If the bearings look and feel good, I don't replace them. A ball bearing running in oil lasts a very long time.

And those old bearings were probably made of better, or more pure steel than the ones made today.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2016, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
What does brgs stand for? Bearings?
Yes, brg is short acronym for bearing. I am going to reuse them, cleaned up and oiled again, ran very smooth. Below are the crankshaft measurements. The cylinder bore was about .005 taper top to bottom and not out of round, 3.380 at the top, along with those scuff marks on the side. I was wandering about the crank and having it reground? Below are the measurements from the crank, with a micrometer.
crankshaft measurements 3_17_16.jpg
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2016, 08:50 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Grind it. Always.
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2016, 10:02 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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As Jon said, grind it. Better you have a known true round surface for the rod than an egg shaped one or an unknown.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2016, 10:37 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Thanks for the help on this. This is one place I want to be sure everything is good, I am taking the crank in to grind .010 under and the cylinder will clean up at .010 over, too. I Got the kit ordered from the aftermarket retailer on ebay. In the meantime, found several things that need to be fixed, this will keep me busy till the block and crank are done.
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  #16  
Old 04-03-2016, 01:19 AM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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I took the crankshaft to the machine shop today 45 min away and found out their machinist that had been there 45 years retired, they have a new guy, but not quit ready to do crankshafts yet. They have another place about a half hour away where the are going to send it too. This is the first time I have looked for a place to have engine work done. anyway just wanted to post a couple pictures of the crankshaft journal before and new rod, measured 1.49, so it is undersized. The piston was marked with a .01 over on top. But I found it interesting there was no markings of any type on the rings to indicate .01 over or a dot. But there was some good instructions for installation.
20160402_133906.jpg 20160402_133926.jpg20160402_134010.jpg
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2016, 09:01 AM
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Rings are not usually marked except for the package/paper they come in.
It is always best check end gap in the cylinder before installing on piston.
I have seen chit happen,don't ASSUME anything!
it will bite you in the arse
I could tell stories, as a lot of us could.
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2016, 09:48 AM
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I know you are from. I met you once at Meisners. Where did you take the crank?
There is a guy in South Sioux that does cranks and all engine machine work
PM me and I can give you some names
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  #19  
Old 04-03-2016, 11:14 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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So, did the crank get ground? I can't tell from the pic.
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  #20  
Old 04-03-2016, 02:08 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Not yet, just dropped it off yesterday. probably be back end of this week or longer. they quoted me 40 for the block and 65 for the crank, but since the crank has to go elsewhere the labor rates may be different. I will find out Monday. I have a machinist friend doing the block for me, he is honing it with a sunnex hone and is taking the last .0015 off now that he has the piston. I will post pictures of both when they get back.
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