New Rototiller! - Page 3

Matt G. · #21 09-13-2011, 05:41 PM

Honestly, I'd just use the stamped ones for the tiller and keep an eye on them. For someone like me that tills a garden at the beginning and end of each season, and uses a walk-behind (much narrower rows after stuff is planted) the stamped ones will last quite awhile. My previous tiller tractor, a 128, had the billet pulleys, but I had a really hard time finding them, and they were expensive.

And for the snowthrower, as long as it isn't die-cast aluminum, it should be fine. The OEM tiller pulley on the 2B tiller is stamped steel with a CI hub...

LarryW · #22 09-17-2011, 09:16 PM

Today I mounted the tiller on my 147. I also drained the rear end and put some fresh oil in there. I think it was atf that came out? It was red. I also think it was low because I don't think I got that much out of it. In the 9ish years I have had it I never messed with it. Anyways the drive seems quieter and more responsive but that could just be me paying closer attention. I mounted the PTO and then for what ever reason(bored I think, lol) I wanted to take the lower pulley off so I messed with that and soaked it over night in pb blaster and still nothing but did get the setscrews loose. I finally took the whole mount off and mounted it upside down. The holes don't line up that way so I only used 2 diagonal from each other. Then with the gear box off but hanging by the pulley I was able to find a shaft that would fit in the bore inside the pulley and banged the gearbox out of the pulley. It worked good and I didn't damage the pulley because I had the main part on the gear box mount. So then I clean the shaft and it comes off and on easy now so in case I ever need too take it off, lol. So I mounted the pto again and put my old hitch on the back upside down as I figured that is what the holes are for and then tried to mount the tiller but it don't have enough room with the hitch so I took that back off.

Finally got the tiller mounted and then my 3 pt lift is non oem and I had to figure out how to make it work. I came up with something but Im going to have to do it differently because it hits the gear housing on the tiller when the tiller is lifted. It does come off the ground but not by much. Maybe 2". I welded the 3 pt stuff on years ago before I used the internet much and never had the shaft that goes in and never knew what went in there. I thought it was cool because it threads in and out so you could change the leverage/movement. I never really had an attachment but made some lower draw bar and a connecting threaded rod for it. I probably am going to grind it off and make my own shaft. I don't have the T height adjustment nut on the chains so I need to make one of those. Also not shown is the 3pt rocker mount. I also made that years ago and I did weld that on the frame too.

Another one of the if I knew then what I know now kinda thing. Someday I will probably grind that off and find a correct oem one. I took some pictures of it mounted but it don't show the goofyness of having a 26" tiller on the back of a wider tractor very well. These are my narrow tires, 23 x7.5x12. I don't even have my 10.5s on. I found a guy with tine extensions I just need to see how much he wants for them and get them. I also checked the 90 degree gear box oil and added some and searched around for grease zerks on the tiller but none of the bearings have any. I haven't bought the big PTO belt yet so I couldn't try it out.

But did lower it and drag it around the yard a few laps, lol.

Also it lifts a lot easier then I thought it would. I do have the helper spring. I was worried it was going to be hard to lift because my blower was before I added an extra heavy duty helper springs to it. I actually have to push it down now. I will show pictures of that setup probably sooner then I want too. I hate snow.

Larry

ACecil · #23 09-17-2011, 11:07 PM

Nice looking tiller, Larry!

Methos · #24 09-18-2011, 12:38 AM

Larry, if you loosen that nut up it will allow the tiller to go deeper into the ground. Not sure if that will cure your problem all the way but it will get the tiller deeper. From what I could see it with that welded in there like that your going to have to get a new top casting and lifting pin.

LarryW · #25 09-18-2011, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACecil

Nice looking tiller, Larry!

Thanks Allen!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

Larry, if you loosen that nut up it will allow the tiller to go deeper into the ground. Not sure if that will cure your problem all the way but it will get the tiller deeper. From what I could see it with that welded in there like that your going to have to get a new top casting and lifting pin.

Methos, Im pretty sure it will go down far enough but I havent tested it. I could back up on some blocks to lift the rear and see how far down it goes. The problem I think is the height. I need to look around for some pictures and see how how they normally go. I have the nut all the way down. But I have that big nut/spacer under it that I could do differently.
I should be able to cut the nut welded to the top casting off with a cut off and grind it back down. Lifting pin! Thats what that is called. Thanks!

I need to make one. I have 1" round stock laying around. Actually I have some 4140 I could use if I can drill it.

Sugarmaker · #26 09-18-2011, 09:52 AM

Larry,
Thanks for the shots of the tiller!
I have one but it has never been mounted or used by me. The pictures may help me at some point on that project too!
I agree that this site helps a LOT with the little details!
Regards,
Chris

LarryW · #27 09-18-2011, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

Larry,
Thanks for the shots of the tiller!
I have one but it has never been mounted or used by me. The pictures may help me at some point on that project too!
I agree that this site helps a LOT with the little details!
Regards,
Chris

Cool! If you need any specific shot I would be happy to help you!

Methos · #28 09-18-2011, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryW

Methos, Im pretty sure it will go down far enough but I havent tested it. I could back up on some blocks to lift the rear and see how far down it goes. The problem I think is the height. I need to look around for some pictures and see how how they normally go. I have the nut all the way down. But I have that big nut/spacer under it that I could do differently.
I should be able to cut the nut welded to the top casting off with a cut off and grind it back down. Lifting pin! Thats what that is called. Thanks!

I need to make one. I have 1" round stock laying around. Actually I have some 4140 I could use if I can drill it.

Looking forward to your updates!

ACecil · #29 09-18-2011, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

Looking forward to your updates!

Me too.

LarryW · #30 09-19-2011, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

Don't forget to use the steel pulleys! The stamped steel ones on the mower mule drives are not meant to be used for tillers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

Larry the stamped steel pulleys will come apart under load. Tillers and thower/blowers both need to use the steel pulleys.

I actually never noticed but I do have one steel pulley.

So that is cool and I am good there. I was also thinking, why would you need the steel pulley on the thrower/blower? My belt goes straight to the gearbox. Must be there is another style I haven't seen or you goofed?

Update on my lift problem with the home made lift hitting my tiller. Those plates welded in the threaded rod have 2 holes. The closer hole is hidden in my pictures above in the shadow of the washer. I had the bolt on the last hole in my picture. The first hole would almost work to hold the tiller pickup rod in but was tight so I drilled it out a little more so I could get the bolt in it. Basically I slide the pickup rod closer to the lift casting. I then cut the end off with the last hole out. It works good there. I also came up with another solution to my lift problem to make it work more like the original one would. Instead of cutting off the nut on my lift casting and making the 1" pin. I can just cut the head off a bolt that threads in it and drill a hole in it. It would work the same as the original style pin but will be length adjustable with the threads. The way I have it now is working but it is rigged and I don't like that.

I am really enjoying this hobby/toy/worker!