Advice on clutch pin removal

[garnold]

Found this on eBay. Would this fit? Also, are air hammer bits generally universal so would this fit on that Husky I just bought?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SNAPON-A..._Tools&vxp=mtr

[dgrapes59]

I may be stating the obvious, but I didn't see what kind of punch you are using, I hope it is not a standard pin punch, but one designed for roll pins, they have a "nipple" on the end designed to push the center of the pin in and release the tension (why you use this type of pin in the first place). I am a NF guy, so not familiar with a 108, assuming it is similar, but easier to get to. I purchased one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Punch-Roll-P...item43cbba0e28

It is long enough to reach through the creeper hole on a NF and whack it from the top, may not be a Snap-On, but is USA made and I have removed many pins with it so far and no problems. Once you get it moving a pin punch usually works to finish removing the pin.

Good luck,

[cc_bob]

There are differences in some of the air hammer bits. I have some left from an older air hammer and they are a bit thicker than the one I have now. The shank going into the gun is the same size so I can still use them but I have to leave the spring off.

Do you have access to a big vice or a shop press? Might be able to press it out. Grind a V in a piece of pipe or an old socket to put on the back side of the shaft and give the pin a place to go. Put the works in the vice, keep it square to the jaws and tighten the crap out of it. An extra set of hands will be a big help.

If it still doesn't move, with the vice still tight, take a SLEDGEto the front jaw of the vice with a SOLID wack. Note, do this at your own risk of breaking your vice, if it's a good one it should be able to take it.

If that still doesn't work find someone with a torch to heat the shaft. Try NOT to heat the pin, just heat the shaft as fast as possible so it expands before the pin and give it a good wack.

Being able to take a full swing with a sledge is a great skill to have. Lightly tapping on it won't do a lot if it's really seized.

Good luck!

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by garnold

Found this on eBay. Would this fit? Also, are air hammer bits generally universal so would this fit on that Husky I just bought?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SNAPON-A..._Tools&vxp=mtr

most bits are universal, i have 3 different air hammers and they all take the same bits.

[garnold]

Originally Posted by dgrapes59

I may be stating the obvious, but I didn't see what kind of punch you are using, I hope it is not a standard pin punch, but one designed for roll pins, they have a "nipple" on the end designed to push the center of the pin in and release the tension (why you use this type of pin in the first place). I am a NF guy, so not familiar with a 108, assuming it is similar, but easier to get to. I purchased one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Punch-Roll-P...item43cbba0e28

It is long enough to reach through the creeper hole on a NF and whack it from the top, may not be a Snap-On, but is USA made and I have removed many pins with it so far and no problems. Once you get it moving a pin punch usually works to finish removing the pin.

Good luck,

Yep, that's the one I'm using. Actually learned about it here

[garnold]

Originally Posted by cc_bob

There are differences in some of the air hammer bits. I have some left from an older air hammer and they are a bit thicker than the one I have now. The shank going into the gun is the same size so I can still use them but I have to leave the spring off.

Do you have access to a big vice or a shop press? Might be able to press it out. Grind a V in a piece of pipe or an old socket to put on the back side of the shaft and give the pin a place to go. Put the works in the vice, keep it square to the jaws and tighten the crap out of it. An extra set of hands will be a big help.

If it still doesn't move, with the vice still tight, take a SLEDGEto the front jaw of the vice with a SOLID wack. Note, do this at your own risk of breaking your vice, if it's a good one it should be able to take it.

If that still doesn't work find someone with a torch to heat the shaft. Try NOT to heat the pin, just heat the shaft as fast as possible so it expands before the pin and give it a good wack.

Being able to take a full swing with a sledge is a great skill to have. Lightly tapping on it won't do a lot if it's really seized.

Good luck!

The pins that are stuck are the ones attaching the drive shaft to the rear end so I can't get it out and try it in a vice. I'm hoping I can at least get the pin out closest to the engine so I can replace the disc and get the pressure plates out so I can get them refaced. This is on the 108 and might be all I can do. Really hope the tho-out bearing is ok. Have not tried to knock out the pins on my 73 and those really need to come out at the rear because I'm looking to put a creeper in that tractor so a drive shaft swap is needed. I'll keep the beatings up and report back my results.

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by garnold

The pointy bits just mushroom out the pin more then pushes it down

That is probably your problem right there...
Grind that pin off even with whatever it's going through. Then knock it out!

Sears has the punches you need a set of 5 (I believe) for about 20 bucks. These are just "manual" punches, not air hammer punches.

I drilled a 3/8" hole down the center of a 3/4" grade 8 bolt (bolt about 10" long) to use as an extension for the punch. It works GREAT, you can REALLY smack the head of that bolt! I was even surprised at how well it works.

THE ONLY OTHER THING I CAN THINK OF IS, that pin could be partly sheared in its hole, if it is sheared very much, you will not drive it out

[Maxwelhse]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

THE ONLY OTHER THING I CAN THINK OF IS, that pin could be partly sheared in its hole, if it is sheared very much, you will not drive it out

Thats a good point. If the holes aren't lined up you could beat on it forever and get no where or simply break something.

Hopefully that's not the case if the tractor came into the shop with a working DS?

[garnold]

So after a can of PB Blaster and beating the life out of these pins today one finally came out! Lucky for me it was the one closeset to the rear so I can pull out the entire clutch assembly and cub link. I can live with buying a new cup link and drive shaft if I have too So glad I finally got this out!

[garnold]

So just a little update on this. I ended up getting out the grinding/cutting wheel on my RotoZip and took some advice from this thread and leveled out the pin down to the link. I didn't go crazy but did go down a little deeper then just flush. After that I beat the snot out of it and said many 4 letter words (had to ask the kids to go inside). Finally it came out!!! Thank you all for the advice

Also, just a note for you that might be interested in getting one of these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261507063391...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This hammer adapter does fit just fine and can be used to push out pins. Sadly the air hammer I bought just is not powerful enough to knock out pins I tried to use this setup to knock out the pin on my 73's clutch and the pin just sat their and laughed at me and my little hammer

So I got my can of PB Blaster, mini sledge and roll pin punch and moved my snot beating over to this tractor HAHAHA! I won and the pin lost this time around without much argument.

I was hoping to put a creeper on this 73 but I just can't see how to get that pin out of the link that attaches the drive shaft to the trans-axle. I don't have access to a full shop and those type of lift tools so getting the access to this area of the tractor is just very hard. I'm guessing this is why some folks drill a hole on the top of the frame to see the pin area. This tractor is not going to stay stock so maybe I'll do that next. Right now I just want it to run and with that pin out I can at least replace and repair the plates and disc. I really do like the simplicity of NF tractors but not having the tunnel cover like on the WF tractor's is a bugger

Like I said before, thank you all very much for your advice and help with this!