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#21
09-09-2025, 07:38 AM
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So now I'm trying to locate the engine serial/spec numbers for ordering parts. I don't see anything on the blower housing. I'm hoping to find a metal plate but not having luck. Any decal would have faded away a long time ago.
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#22
09-09-2025, 09:04 AM
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Most I've seen had just a sticker on the cover and they don't last long.
Using any generic M-18 number will get you what you need for what you are doing. If you take the flywheel off, its ok to wash the MAGGOTS off, (as Tetryl says) with gas/Kero or your favortie cleaner. but what ever you do, do not scrape or pry or soak as they are just glued into the rim. Do look at them to see if the spacing is equal to each other, not broken, or missing as then they have to be reglued with epoxy. But most flywheels are ok, just giving you a heads up. Its a pain to re epoxy, and they have a North/south orientation and they have to be spaced properly. Wooden clothes pins for spacing, rubber bands and clamps are needed and the maggots are easily broken, rendering them useless You don't want to go there Ha,lol. BTDT I have done two successfully, the 3rd was for spare magnets.
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#23
09-09-2025, 09:54 AM
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So just ordering my parts for M18 should get it done you're saying? That's what I thought too. Just wanted to be sure, as you probably know expensive ignition parts aren't returnable. Normally I'd do all this through my local dealership, who I have been doing business with since 1989 and have a good relationship, but they are now just about all Kubota. They would have to order most of the stuff I need anyway so I think I should be able to do it cheaper by ordering myself.
If all goes well I'll finish getting the engine out today and we'll see how things look. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the help, George and everybody else.
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#24
09-09-2025, 01:36 PM
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So the engine is out. Starter too, it'll go to the local rebuild shop. The problem now is that some " genius" must have tack welded the plate at the top of the blower housing that goes behind the flywheel to the housing so the only way I can see to get the housing off is to the remove the intake. Just what I wanted to do. More parts to chase down
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#25
09-10-2025, 05:53 PM
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Didn't have to remove the intake, ground out the spot welds with a dremel, of all things. Got the flywheel off, no puller, came off easy. Glad you guys talked me into it, Lotsa crap on the stator. Happy to say the magnets look fine, to me least. Parts, all OEM, on the way. The only problem I that the shop I was going to use to rebuild the starter is no more. Any suggestions on good aftermarket?
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#26
09-10-2025, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Not a good idea to cut all the spot welds just to save removing 4 bolts on the intake. Your tractor your decisions. Good luck in your modification endeavor. 
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#27
09-11-2025, 07:53 AM
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Maybe, but I've seen (videos) where it is not welded and is simply bolted to the blower housing. It's six bolts and two more hard to track down gaskets. I've already got enough parts to put back together. It ain't like this is all I've got going on here. That and I really don't get how being welded reduces cracking, but then again, I don't have your expertise.
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#28
09-11-2025, 08:15 AM
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An OEM starter is probably $300+. 99.9% of replacement ones are probably from China. I’ve had good luck with DB Electric.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...8-engines.html
__________________
This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction
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